Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi new to the site was told this is the place to find the info im after so here i am im doin a conversion for a friend on a skyline and was after some info or a site (link) telling me what i need to change to make it work,its an R32 with a blown Rb 20 and he wants to run a Rb25det and i was wondering if any one has performed it.

Any info would be great as he has already purchased the motor and loom and comp so im after some help regarding installation. :newbie:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53377-rb25-into-r32-skyline/
Share on other sites

If you have the engine, loom and comp, then it's a straight swap. Pull the RB20 out, put the RB25 in.

To change the loom, it's easiest if you remove the LH guard.

And fit a new clutch assembly while you have access to it.

i'm 50% thru the process. But I'm goin for a Power FC for management because of the different sensors and the difficulty of connecting the sensors to the RB25 computer.

Just finished conversion in my 32 and if you have a bit of mech knowledge it was piss easy. Recommended timing belt/water pump change prior to fitment

All that was required is:

Remove rb20 - leave ancillaries still in car (alt/pwr steer pump/ a/c and starter mtr

1) All rb20 ancillaries bolt straight up to rb25 (a/c + alt bracket is identical)

2) use rb20 engine mounts on rb25 (straight fit)

3) Heater hoses (at back of engine to firewall) are smaller on rb20 than rb25 - either make adapter to step down size from rb25 - rb20 or do what I did and heat up (in boiling water) the ends (the smaller rb20 pipes) that go on the engine, and expand them with pointy nose pliers, lube them up (car wash or detergent) and then slide them on. Simple fix.

4) Replace oil pressure SWITCH sender on rb25 (sensor under oil filter) with oil pressure SENDER unit off rb20. The alt/str mtr loom has the plug for this so connect it when the eng goes in.

5) replace the water temp sender (the smaller single blade plug type sensor) with the identical looking one off the rb20. The calibration of the wtr temp gauges is different between models - this will ensure your gauge still works correctly.

6) Change the harmonic balancer to the rb20 one to ensure your pulleys all line up with the belts.

Also get an r31 (i think) skyline top radiator hose or r33 to fit - the rb20 bottom hose fits

7) The computer pwr/ign/inj pwr loom is the rectangular plug behind the airbox just next to the pwr steer resovoir - trace the wires and make adapter loom for the rb25 computer loom. (no need to remove lh guard????!!!!)

8) Trace wires for the windscreen wiper motor and connect in to the motor and in the foot well

9) Only speed sense, a/c trigger, tacho ( i think thats all) needs to be traced and connect in the foot well and then you are good to go!!

Be advised your strut brace (like mine) may not fit after fitment as the engine is slightly taller (due the inlet manifold height)

This conversion is the sh%t - the car is sssoooo driveable now - no off boost dull boring rb20 lacking torque - go through roundabouts in 3rd and accel out from 30km/h no probs. Oh yeah - if you fit a pwr fc and wind up the boost, the rb25 in the dry is just like the rb20 was in the wet - driftin' easy!

Just a quick Q asI recently found out my engine is dieing and needs to replaced so looking at options.

Did anyone use the RB20 gearbox or did you all swap to the RB25DET gearbox. I'm just wondering on driveability and reliability of these boxes behind the bigger engine.

I understand that it would be easier to blow the box but if you aren't doing burnouts etc how risky is it?

Thanks.

both are reliable as rocks.. if nothing silly is done.. rb25 is torquey with get down low to go go go. rb25 has the advantage of more aftermarket parts being direct fit these days.

very useful info blue, will come in useful.. i just picked up an rb25 complete today for silly price :D

i'd imagine a workshop would charge outragious prices for an engine swap (regardless of whether it's an easy swap or not) and you'd probably want someone who has a bit of knowledge about skylines and has done the swap before. Best idea would be to ask around on the forum and see if someone whose done the swap before needs a bit of spare $$$

I think the suggestion has been made in a previous thread to do the fitting yourself but get an autoelectrician to wire up the loom, (which is apparently the hardest thing - that was suggested on a previous thread on the topic)

Anyone done any RB26DETT conversions? Im thinking on waiting until my RB20DET blows up and then put an RB26DETT engine + RB25DET gearbox in it and go driftin :-D (mmm rear wheel RB26DETT)

http://www.justjap.com/welcome_page.htm

RB25DET 5 Sp $5,000

RB25DET NEO 5 Sp $6,000

RB26DETT 5 Sp R32 $7,500

u will have to call to see if they have any in stock, all the prices are "From $..." so i think they're minimum prices

What's the diff between rb25det and rb25det neo??

There are cheaper places to get complete motors than there if you are going that route.

Best option is to try and source the front cut directly from japan.. or through somebody locally who has written off their car and who wants to get rid of it quickly. You can get a good motor around the $2k mark, but you have to shop around, know some people and/or be quite lucky - thats definitely not an "average" price though.

West's car for example you could buy, pull the motor, and sell the rest and you'd be getting a very cheap rb25det..

Merlin - I'm seriously considering doing an RB26DETT conversion when my car gets here...

That'd make it a - Garage Impul R32 4 door AUTO RWD sedan with a GTR engine... :P

Other than just converting the engine I think I'd be looking at high-stall converter (+maybe strengthening the the auto box if needed although apparently they are pretty good) and prehaps a brake upgrade (its already got tuned suspension). Then a light tune on the engine and I'll be aiming for 12s 1/4miles :D

im gonna wait until my RB20DET blows itself up then look at doing a conversion, though a RB26DETT might be a little too good, especially since i'll probably be drifting it.

i have no idea how the RB26 will go with an auto box. you might be better off with a RB25DET from an R33 skyline and putting a bigger turbo on it. Saves hassel coz u just have to find a R33 half cut with an auto transmission.

I have a 1995 RB25DET in my R32 - it was the only one of 2 In Perth. I absolutely love the car and its really miles ahead of a RB20. The power down low is crazy and because its a lighter car it REALLY gets up and goes, on the run its phenomenal.Best conversion runs like a dream BUT MAKE SURE U GET A RB25DET Gearbox!!!! RB20 box wud shit itself if u drove it hard

Mine with only a Full exhaust system, FMIC and Rom is getting 280 rwhp.

Only needs a about 330rwhp and ur looking at 11s.

regards

Kim.

Mmmm, how much did you pay for it, with conversion or did you do the conversion yourself?

How much did you pay for the conversion?

Definately worthy though, it was something I wanted to do when I was looking into the 32's.. Didn't like the idea of the rb20.. Not quite big enough capacity for my likings.

My car made 210rwkw on Friday when I got the Pwr FC tuned on 1 bar. Goes really good now - the rb20 on 1 bar std computer only made 160kw!!!

I strongly recommend the conversion as the extra torque is a god send - also the fact that the standard engine can make 210rwkw on 1 bar (with the usual fmic, exhaust, cold air induction/pod filter, r33 gtr fuel pump) is a good enough reason for me. The next mods will be probably 2835 or gt30/35, bigger injectors and maybe a 1.4mm head gasket for a solid 280 - 300 rwkws with enough torque to pull over a house (figuratively speaking - maybe not compared to a mining truck!!! :) I also have used the rb20 g/box currently - when the minister for finance allows another 'relaxing of the budget' i will upgrade to r33 box. FYI I think it needs a small trans tunnel massage (rubber mallet!) and the r33 auto x member. Also the r33 g/box yoke needs to be joined to rb20 tailshaft along with corresponding change of tailshaft length. Haven't measured it yet but will post once I do.

s13 180 - i did leave the starter/alternator loom from the r32 in the car - the knock sensor loom is seperate and plugs into engine loom on rb20. The rb25 knock sensor loom (from memory) was incorporated in the rb25 starter/alt loom. I simply stripped it back till i had only the rb25 knock sensor loom and plugged it in wherever it went onto the engine loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...