Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would spraying too much water onto your intercooler make it heat up the charge air?

I have 2 sprayers on the cooler which sprays water controller by a 6psi hobs switch...

Its a front mount cooler avo stage 2

Any ideas?

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can not understand how it could be possible but someone else may want to confirm this.

From a physics perspective, unless the water is substantially hotter than the cooler it will always cool more due to the evaporative effect.

Yes unless you are heating the water by running the water lines 2 close to the engine or exhaust manifold the water will cool the intercooler not heat it up!!

How have you got ur system setup? Are you using the rear window wiper motor for the ic spray?

Guilt - toy, I just posted a message expressing interest in getting a water spray for my cooler - I would definitely think it would have a cooling effect, especially in hotter weather. Evaporating water combined with wind can substantially reduce the temp of an object. Try it on your skin with saliva (Assume the saliva is the same temp as your body). Lick your hand and blow on it. Does it feel cool or hot?

Would spraying too much water onto your intercooler make it heat up the charge air?

I have 2 sprayers on the cooler which sprays water controller by a 6psi hobs switch...

Its a front mount cooler avo stage 2  

Any ideas?

You want the mist to be as fine as possible. On my subaru, I had a water spray set up that used very fine nozzles. The way it was set up, a very fine mist was sprayed in the the bonnet scope in front of the intercooler. The water would vapourise as soon as it touched the coooler or even before, therefore cooling the air.

I have seen a few people do tests on the track. Someone found that garden nozzles which used about 1L/min actually cooled the intercooler much less than misting nozzles which used one twentieth of the water.

When I set mine up, I used three brassnozzles designed for evaporative cooling which I imported from the US. The nozzles are made specifically for cooling sports stadiums and the like.

If anyone is interested, I still have the whole kit inlcuding nozzles, adjustable hobbs pressure switch, relays, switch and a custom made electronic controller which holds the pump on for 5 seconds after boost drops (keeps the pump going between gears). I'm willing to sell this kit as I no longer need it.

Hi Mik,

you had your kit installed on your wrx correct? And with the stocko top mount cooler? How would this kit go on a car with a FMIC?

Do you have pics of the setup?

Cheers,

Scott

You want the mist to be as fine as possible. On my subaru, I had a water spray set up that used very fine nozzles. The way it was set up, a very fine mist was sprayed in the the bonnet scope in front of the intercooler. The water would vapourise as soon as it touched the coooler or even before, therefore cooling the air.

I have seen a few people do tests on the track. Someone found that garden nozzles which used about 1L/min actually cooled the intercooler much less than misting nozzles which used one twentieth of the water.

When I set mine up, I used three brassnozzles designed for evaporative cooling which I imported from the US. The nozzles are made specifically for cooling sports stadiums and the like.

If anyone is interested, I still have the whole kit inlcuding nozzles, adjustable hobbs pressure switch, relays, switch and a custom made electronic controller which holds the pump on for 5 seconds after boost drops (keeps the pump going between gears). I'm willing to sell this kit as I no longer need it.

Hi Mik,

you had your kit installed on your wrx correct?  And with the stocko top mount cooler?  How would this kit go on a car with a FMIC?

Do you have pics of the setup?

Cheers,

Scott

I had it with the stock TMIC.

It will work fine with a front mount, just need to suitably place the nozzles. The nozzles create a large amount of mist. From memory, ach is designed to cool an are of 10 squae meters or something in a sports stadium.

I have attatched a couple of pics of the nozzles.

Included is:

* 3 brass/stainless steel nozzles

* Power switch

* manual override switch

* Adjustable Hobbs pressure swicth

* Electronic control Box

* Power relay to drive pump

* Some hose

All you might need is a little hose if there is not enough there.

IMHO cooler sprays are a waste of time on a street car. In short bursts coolers work more like heat sinks than heat exchangers. That is, they absorb heat on boost and return this heat back to charge air off boost without actually radiating it to air. There isn't enough time to heat the cooler right through unless going hard for long periods. This is different to a track/race car which is on boost most of the time, which has good cause for a spray.

Also most of the effectiveness of the spray is from evaporation (hence the fine mist), so they are rendered useless in high humidity eg. BrisVegas. In BrisVegas a home ducted evaporative air conditioner would be better described as a fan.

IMHO cooler sprays are a waste of time on a street car. In short bursts coolers work more like heat sinks than heat exchangers. That is, they absorb heat on boost and return this heat back to charge air off boost without actually radiating it to air. There isn't enough time to heat the cooler right through unless going hard for long periods. This is different to a track/race car which is on boost most of the time, which has good cause for a spray.

Also most of the effectiveness of the spray is from evaporation (hence the fine mist), so they are rendered useless in high humidity eg. BrisVegas.  In BrisVegas a home ducted evaporative air conditioner would be better described as a fan.

wouldn't it minimise heat soak when you are sitting @ the lights?

This is a simple way of doing it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52508

Cheers Rob

The nozzles used there won't do much for cooling, but will waste water.

The water needs to be made into a VERY fine mist to promote evaporation, as that is what causes the cooling effect.

I still dont think the guys question has been answered. He is asking is TOO MUCH water bad.

And out of interest how bad would it be to put say metho or something similar in the water mix? As this would bring temps down even lower correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...