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Top Notch Rb26 Rebuild

jaik

By jaik,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

I had a tomei and jun one side by side... ended up going the jun as the 'doors' are hinged metal not rubber and the jun looked like it allowed more flow into the 'trapped area' (the doors were physically larger).

Also with the jun baffles, it retains the stock 'oil sump cover' that goes over the sump. This has specific cuts and galleries in it so the oil flicking off the crankshaft and dribbling down will 'recirculate' back into the sump. The tomei kit replaces this cover with its own which is completely closed.

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
Measure twice, cut once. :chop:

I agree....youd wanna check what it actually is....had the same talk to a guy that supposably builds engines the other day...he said "plastigauge....thats old"...but after i said "why not check it hell i check everything at least twice" he started to back pedal after an onlooker(who was an engineer) agreed

ace_nz Apprentice

ace_nz

Posted
Posted

the only time i would use plasti gauge is if i was doin bearings in place and couldnt really get a micrometer in there, im sure most reconditioners would cringe at its use, i agree measure twice cut once but measure with the right tools. Also the way they mount and measure with that digital bore gauge is not that accurate, i would use an inner mic and measure that with the outer mic that id used to measure the journal so your taking all your sizes off the one tool.

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