Jump to content
SAU Community

weight of a rb25 engine

Driver

By Driver,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted
The majority of the weight in a car is in the Engine and Gearbox so i think the wngine would way more than that...

thats what i used to think, but rb2x engines/gearboxes arent that heavy

i did just say the engine itself, not all the other bits around it

Dynamix Experienced

Dynamix

Posted
Posted

Toll wont send for you unless you are a business or have an abn. I've got stuff from melbourne to here through pack'n'send, I had to sell my left testicle on the black market just to get my parts. I was told that the thing goes on size, then they dertermin the cubic weight from the lenght x width x diameter then charge you by weight, thats why mine was so expensive to send because it was a big box.

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

i got charged $25 for a wooden crate...then sent a diff off to sydney. Cost $113 through pack and send. Then i had a diff sent back (in same crate i paid $25 for) cost $108 to return. I got a call to say my package had arrived, only to find pack and send had opened it, removed its contents, then gave me the diff, but kept the $25 wooden crate i paid for.....

Pack and send are the biggest rip off mail tampering f*k heads....go with TNT

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

R33 gtr engine , gearbox and accesories including inlet + exhaust manifolds , starter, alt and turbos , as i pulled it off the car weighs 330 kg . ( not including air cond pump or power steer pump , they stay on the car )

gearbox on its own including the little driveshaft 90 kg .

an rb 25 will be less than 240 kg cause you don't have 2 turbos and no diff in the sump .

i would say about 200 kg depending on what accesories you include .

gtr sump weighs 29 kg rb 25 will be a lot less maybe 10 kg the extra turbo will be like 10 -15 kg as well .

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Whilst pack n' send is indeed a rip, there isn't too many other options.. dnb organised to get my head delivered using Toll Ipsec, however they didn't secure it too well (and there wasn't too many options in terms of packing something like that :() and it was damaged slightly. They must have been flying around corners or something the whole way..

The price was about 1/2 of Pack 'n Rip however...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...