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For what its worth I changed to an AMSOIL remote mount kit with AMSOIL filter on my R33 GTR. They are available in several capacitys from the standard NISSAN filter size to the one I run which has a 1.5 litre capacity. Those of you who do circuit work know of the benefit of this alone. They flow at a higher rate than the MOBIL1 with finer particulate level screening. They are synthetic and have a non-return valve builtin, this prevents the crap the filter has collected being returned to the motor on shutdown as the cheap ones do. The standard size costs no more

than a genuine NISSAN one with the larger costing around $35.00.

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Joel, I buy them from the main dealer in Adelaide. His name is Bruce Pavier and

has the stuff out at Silverlake Rd Mylor in the hills 0883885294, he discounts for

club members NISSAN SVD etc. There are also a number of dealers in the burbs, Beaumont Nailsworth Thebarton. Look under lubricants in the Yellow Pages. I also use AMSOIL for the motor gearbox and diff. Got onto it from Eric the guy who was the head mechanic for the Winfield GTR's that that took Bathurst. Its fully synthetic

comes in all ranges with applications from stock to indy car and they have a turbo release which I use. Check their website www.amsoil.com. When I was at the clipsal I was checking out the stone brothers racing garage, they were putting it

in one on of their cars, when I asked they said not to believe the advertising on the cars it was the only oil they would use and other teams were using it as well.

You dont dont have to buy known name brands to get the best. My advice, buy the biggest filter that will fit, its like bolting on a bigger sump without the cost.

I've found another decent link that branches off to other study's etc.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...ghlight=oil+faq

My conclusion is... :)

I'm going to use a PureOne oil filter until the motor has done around 2500km's.

This is because the PureOne oil filter catches the finest particles over over basically every other filter on the market. BUT its down side is it is poor in the oil flow area. This shouldn't matter as the motor is only in its run in stage and not being pushed hard.

Once the car is run in I will most definately change over to the Amsoil filter (as it filters as well as a Mobil 1 filter) but it has really excellent flow capabilities.

So there it is ppls.. After myself spending days of reading thats my conclusion. :D

It appears the Amsoil motor oil is the best or one of the best of best.. :)

I'll give motor reg. a buzz in the next day or so to find out if remote oil filter kits are legal. If so I will be moving my oil filter so its vertical & easy to get to. I'm tired of getting oil over the crossmember. :)

Joel, I buy them from the main dealer in Adelaide. His name is Bruce Pavier and

has the stuff out at Silverlake Rd Mylor in the hills 0883885294, he discounts for

club members NISSAN SVD etc. There are also a number of dealers in the burbs, Beaumont Nailsworth Thebarton. Look under lubricants in the Yellow Pages. I also use AMSOIL for the motor gearbox and diff. Got onto it from Eric the guy who was the head mechanic for the Winfield GTR's that that took Bathurst. Its fully synthetic

comes in all ranges with applications from stock to indy car and they have a turbo release which I use. Check their website www.amsoil.com. When I was at the clipsal I was checking out the stone brothers racing garage, they were putting it

in one on of their cars, when I asked they said not to believe the advertising on the cars it was the only oil they would use and other teams were using it as well.

You dont dont have to buy known name brands to get the best. My advice, buy the biggest filter that will fit, its like bolting on a bigger sump without the cost.

There we Go!! :)

Autobarn sells PureOne filters.

And yeah Amsoil filters is definitely one of the better out there. It has one of the best balances between filtration and oil flow. Here is an EXCELLENT and scientific study on oil filters!

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

It sure is buddy.... :)

I've just changed over to some normal oil away from the run-in oil.

I'll play it safe and do 2000-3000 or so km's more before changing to full synthetics.

The RB30 in the R32 with its nice 4.363:1 diff ratio is nice to drive.

I find my self changing at 2000rpm in to the next gear with a nice puch in the back.

Its easily nails auto's off the line as you can simply pop the clutch and accelerate away. No need to ride the clutch or stall it up to get off the line quickly.

If you do slightly bring the rev's up (1200rpm) It will break in to wheel spin.

The ceramic 9puk clutch is quite grabby so that probably also helps it break traction.

I'm happy with it, it has much more off the line punch that I thought it would.

On 6psi with 8degree's @ 5000rpm it made 133rwkw in shootoutmode.

The rb20 turbo's wastegate was wired open and it still made that 6psi by 4000rpm.

The power run was backed off just after 5000rpm as the motor was still fairly fresh. This was all done on the rb20det ecu so the AFR's were in the flat 11's.

Definately some potential there. :D

Don't get me started talking about the rb30det.. I'll never shut up.. :D

Unfortunately no.

He was on his way out so he couldn't get the prices and only recommended the types of oils to use.

sparkmanv11 maybe could help us out?

With the dual remote oil filter kit that was worth $400 or so he said total for the oil filter kit, engine, gearbox & diff oils would be worth around $600.

So the oils don't sound extremely expensive (~$200 cheaper than redline at least).

I priced up a K&N oil filter from Motormates, they are around the mid $20 mark.

I always thought of the valvoline as a cheapy.

 

They apparently have a thin filter. Highflow but low filtration.

I've got a few at home which I'll cut up when I get there ( couple of months away)

Excellent thread - how do the genuine nissan ones hold up?

Good to know the valvoline's aren't the best - Joel I am seriously considering doing the rb30 bottom end in janurary. Best to use the best with fresh gear.

My clutch is on the way out, the (I reckon) g/box input shaft bearings are making a bit of noise when you can hear them in the garage, I have a noisy lifter and soon will probably have to do the exhaust manifold studs. :headbang:

Just as easy to pull the g/box/engine out, go a vl rb30 series 2 na rebuild and fix the other stuff while it's all out.

Allways wanted to do a 30 bottom end/25 head.

Also interested in seeing how it all'll go with the stock turbo.

Just sold a na vl and loved the torque - getting into the 33 was disappointing - you allways seem to be changing gears where the vl'd just pull away from 1500 etc.

Might even consider a taller diff ratio - starting off in second in the 33 ( on a flat surface or down a hill) doesn't worry it at all.

Good stuff fellas. :alien:

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