Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some times I take off in second as I find it quicker to get out in front of traffic. :D

Have a read of the thread in Forced Induction.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55503

I've been muttering to myself a little but I've came to understand the issue I've had on the stock ecu.

Exhaust Reversion.. :)

I'm running N/A cams and a stock turbo (rb20t). The N/A cams have a decent overlap that with the high manifold back pressure causes exhaust reversion when coming on to boost (where exhaust reversion is noticed the most).

Only way out is a set of adj. cam gears, different cam and or a larger turbo.

The 3ltr is the way to go though. Make sure you select the right pistons to keep that factory .045-.050" squish otherwise you will drop in economy instead of picking some up. The rod angle of the 3ltr with the right squish "should" provide a more efficient engine.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used a ryco when cycling my oil.. Hopefully it stopped all the stuff.

I was at UAS the other day so I picked up a JIC oil filter (j-brand) so we'll see how that goes - good idea about cutting it open I never thought of that (duhh).

Will let ya guys know what it looks like (although I must admit my oil is a better colour than when the ryco was on it).

For those who are interested in buying Amsoil oil filters, I spoke with Bruce and for Melbourne area people you can go to;

Lubrication Management Systems

127B Lonsdale St

Dandenong

(ask for Bill Reid, top bloke)

Now, as for me, Geelong has an Amsoil distributor;

Zoom Master

31 Barwon Tce

Geelong

(ask for Kevin)

There are 2 main oil filters for the RB25DET, SDF15 & SDF34. The SDF34 is the recommended one, but the SDF15 will fit and is almost an inch larger, has the exact same filtration properties (10-15 microns), 7-9psi pressure dif valve, retention valve, etc.

I'm going to head down next week to Zoom Master and just make sure the SDF15 fits.

PS. For those maybe wanting to do a group buy, Bill said he'd do a good price, I just can't be farked!

:P ... Kyran

  • 1 month later...

I just pulled apart a cooper. I went to autobarn to get some of the $3 specials a while ago and the guy said be very careful with them as a friend stuffed his motor when some paper came loose. I have used them in the family cars for the past 3-5 years no worries. He reckoned change them every 5k saying the rycos are better.

I read an article on the net praising the coopers but wanted to see for myself.

This one here has been in the gfs 91 model corolla for 10,000kms with oil change at 5,000 kms. (Engine has 220k kms on it). Oil filter shown is Z386 - for skyline it is Z145a, but I assume all coopers are of a similar standard.

Things to note. There was plenty of oil still in the filter which means the anti drain back valve was still working fine. You can usually tell this by the weight (comparing to new filter)

The can and spring (spring is to keep pressure on the Anti drain back valve

img02190ql.jpg

The parts - from left, paper filter, case, spring, Anti drain back valve

img02255bx.jpg

By pass valve at bottom, cannot see too well. You can se the little holes to allow filtered oil to flow through to the centre section.

img02285ag.jpg

Paper filter

img02299ai.jpg

I have new Nissan and cooper oil filters at home. On visual inspection the holes shown in the 3rd pic are larger on the coopers than the nissans, probably not a great thing as if the paper did give way then more chance of a larger piece making its way into engine. I have 2 coopers for a corolla at home and it seems the newer coopers have larger holes whereas older ones had more smaller holes. Don't know why they changed, probably not a big deal at all. After 10000kms the paper was still pretty firm and didn't appear as if it would give way. It didn't tear really easily.

I'm going to stick with the coopers. Never had a dodgy seal either whereas I've heard people with Rycos having probs.

  • 4 weeks later...

Now that I'm due for another change of oil filter (oil leaked out + new sump + new oil) other than having to trek to UAS for a JIC filter (which seemed to keep my oil a nice consistency/colour) are there any other brands to try?

Ryco I'm not impressed with (have heard too many bad things). Paper filters I'd rather shy away from if possible.

Does anyone else know of any good brands or recommend anything? What do all the track hounds use?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...