Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

should be a link to it on the front page.

heres mine from a few months ago, though it looks better now both inside and out.

http://www.pbase.com/yld_sky/image/30477125

http://www.pbase.com/yld_sky/image/30477141

http://www.pbase.com/yld_sky/image/30718473

http://www.pbase.com/yld_sky/image/30718475

at the moment my a-pillars, rear plastics, including doors, and glovebox are in my garage, im just waiting for the current coat to dry. should look really nice once its done. i was thinking about doing the entire interior in creme but im just going to leave the dash vinyl and front door vinyl black, and do the rest in creme, also the handbrake boot and centre console cover are about to be re-done with new parts in black.

1. The easiest way to paint your dash is to remove the parts that you want to spray. (This saves you having to tape up other parts and getting overspray elsewhere).

2. Clean the dash with wax/grease remover. Wipe clean with a dry cloth.

3. Prime the plastic/vinyl with suitable primer. Let dry. There is specific plastic primer available.

4. Spray 1 thin and even coat of plastic/vinyl spray paint. Let dry for 1/2 hour to 1 hour. Spray 2nd coat and let dry. Do not attempt to put your dash back together while it's wet!

6. If you want to protect your new paint work use a clear spray over the top. This comes in high gloss for a nice shiny finish, or matt to keep the original plastic look.

* Shake aerosol can for 2-4 minutes.

* Test spray and get the feel for the spray can (how far away to spray etc)

...also depending on the aerosol can you are using, if it is possible to purchase spray nozzles for your can...do so! They give you a lot more control. (If you want some info on where to buy quality, pm me).

4. Spray 1 thin and even coat of plastic/vinyl spray paint. Let dry for 1/2 hour to 1 hour. Spray 2nd coat and let dry. Do not attempt to put your dash back together while it's wet!  

As a long time fan of the airbrush, I'd like to emphasise heiress' excellent point. THIN coats. I know you really really really want it to look good right away, but please resist the temptation to do only one or two big (read:thick) coats. A large number of very thin coats will serve you well, avoid paint runs, and produce a smoother finish. I'd also suggest that after a few coats, let it dry completely (at least 24h, longer if it's enamel), then use some 1200 or preferably 2000 grade wet'n'dry (make sure you're using lots of water) to smooth out the finish and to avoid any 'orange peel' or other surface imperfections.

Mark

  • 1 month later...
Hi mate where bouts do you go for quality paints etc i am considering in the future to do mine

Heya, you can visit --->

Monty's Auto Colour

625 Albany Highway Victoria Park

They open 10am-5:00pm Mon-Fri and sat 10am-3:00pm

Ask for Natalie and let her know you're from sau for trade prices :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...