Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nope, its DEFINATELY not big enough for a FD .. (looks a lot bigger in the pic) its a bit less than 10cm wide.

Maybe someone from the Japan section can help.. I'm sure its not worth anything here in Australia but its bugging the hell out of me to know what it is.

LOL..  

Yeah, If RWD doesnt work i'll be packing the end of this week .. parking on the street? inconceivable!

Mark: Btw, Thanks mate, hows your girl these days? :)

I had the whole front apart today. I was kinda just stuffing around - setting up the licence plate so it doesn't need to be bent, having a look at the intercooler hoses, losing screws into the bowels of the ducting at the front, and so on. :)

Hey your dash is lifting where mine is! And my wipers came off the boat kinda shiny/polished like yours too.

My girl is going great, though after pulling the front off today it turns out she has been in a front end smash :rofl: The RH headlight doesn't fit as nicely as the LH and the front bar support has stickers on it that have yet to fade... so the saga goes on.

That said, I love working on the car myself. Who'd have thought I learn DIY mechanic on a car that was $110,000 when new! :(

[/thread hijack]

Cheers Heath, now you need to lower the ride height whilst your replacing bushes...

And the pics look great!

Mark

http://panasonic.jp/car/its/ETC/ET700-ET800/index.html

Thats it there.. Its the Panasonic ETC. it looks like some kind of in car navigation thing? I just realised theres the black 'bug' shown on the website mounted at the top of the windscreen..

Wonder why it needs a disc?

Anyway its been torn out :rofl:

Mark,

Mate..! Dont worry about it too much, it gives you a legitimate excuse to make your car a project. :rofl:

I know what you mean about how enjoying it is to do work on the car, Today I have been unscrewed quite a lot of the interior for my touchscreen thats being installed as well as installing my leather momo wheel I pulled out of my old s13 before I sold it.

It was quite difficult to source a HICAS compatable boss kit for the car from the "usual suspects" autobarn, repco, supercheap auto etc.. most of them didnt know what HICAS was and initially tried selling me the wrong part.

If anyone is thinking about replacing the steering wheel on their r32 GTR, the part number is "ON-115" from the "Autotechnica" catalogue that these three major suppliers generally use. The box will be pink with japanese writing on it.

They will initially try and sell you the ON-110 which is a standard non-hicas boss/hub for the r32. Don't buy into it!

Mark, What are you doing to your car next?

Where are you planning to install the touchscreen?

Edit: BTW, according to the HKB website, the 110 is for Super Hicas cars. I am fairly sure the 110 is what I have, which has the prongs for the HICAS. The 115 is for later term R32s apparently. I will double check tomorrow.

http://216.239.37.104/translate_c?u=http:/...san/nissan.html

LW.

lwells: wow its great to hear from someone who actually knows what i'm talking about.. The people today thought I was talking about some kind of super space car from the future.. ??

Heres the translated link for anyone interested:

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...san/nissan.html

Heres how it looked in the catalogue today at repco:

ON-110, R32 Skyline

blah blah blah

blah blah blah

ON-115, 300zx, R32 GTR

And on the HKB site, which is exactly the hub I bought, nice find!! - It says next to 115 "Car such as GTR" and next to 110 "Car" ?? lol.. gee thats helpful :(

The guy at the first Autobarn I called promised me the on-110 would work with hicas though.. oh well.

When you say prongs you mean the plastic disc on the bottom of the hub with the holes for the white prongs on the steering column to lock into? (one at the top, a plug at the bottom)

Ryosuke: Hey man! Good on you for having great taste in cars. The importing procedure can be risky and unpredictable, but if you can arm yourself with enough dough and knowledge you will be okay. If you can have enough self control to have enough money aside for an emergency engine rebuild and the insurance, then you are probably responsible enough to own one of these :rofl:

If your buying an old GTR the only advice I can give you is have lots of cash spare to maintain it. I'm 22 and I can afford one of these because when I was your age I worked hard, saved and invested in real estate, while my mates all went and spent all their pay getting blind every weekend.

Just have an investment plan and a financial strategy before you buy a production race car, and once you've got that sorted, make sure you pick the right one. Make sure you are driving RWD cars only in the meantime, too.

Good Luck

When you say prongs you mean the plastic disc on the bottom of the hub with the holes for the white prongs on the steering column to lock into? (one at the top, a plug at the bottom)

Yup, that's exactly what I mean. The one I have has the two holes for the two white prongs. As I said, I will double check the model number tomorrow. The main issue that most people have with the boss is that they get one with the spots for HICAS prongs in the wrong place (6 and 12 oclock off the top of my head).

Regardless, just don't actually expect your HICAS to work properly: the system doesn't seem to like old age :rofl:

When you take the wheel off (if you haven't already) make sure you mark exactly how the HICAS disc lines up with the spline. A liquid paper pen is quite useful. Oh, and getting the OEM wheel off can be an absolute bitch: make sure you keep the nut on the spline so when you whack the wheel off it doesn't fly into your face.

Again, interested to see how you plan to integrate the LCD...

Edit: if you do **** up the alignment of the HICAS ring with the centre spline, use the OEM wheel to line it back up. There is a dot on the wheel that matches one on the spline IIRC.

LW.

lwells: i've already installed the momo wheel today.. i'll take some photos for you tommorow. I drove it around the uhh, private race track.. as you can see in my sig :( and no hicas light. Seemed to drive okay, but I only went for one lap. But yeah now you mention it, I completely moved the prongs around to suit what I wanted to do :rofl:

So are you saying my HICAS is all confused now? I read somewhere earlier today that you can reset the software. Edit: Without having to put the oem wheel back on.. if i have to take it all back off again.. nooooo

My touch screen i'm probably going to move the AC unit down one, and mount it between the AC and the gauges.. I am not sure if it will fit at the top or not, folded out as its pretty big (7")

I'm doing that tommorow so once i'm done i'll post pics of how my interior is going..

I find that HICAS is usually fine on my car. But every now and then it throws a fit -- usually in heavy traffic :rofl: -- which doesn't seem to be all that uncommon. Steering suddenly weights up and eventually the light comes on.

Worth changing your powersteering fluid too as usually it goes untouched.

Anyway, I would double check the prongs just to be sure. If its not throwing an error already its probably fine, but may as well check it while you can be bothered :(

So your LCD if a fold out unit is it? Reason I ask is I have a Xenarc touchscreen I keep meaning to install at some stage...

LW.

Since I installed it i have not seen the HICAS light turn on once.. except for the obvious christmas tree display as soon as you turn the key in the ignition barrell. Just to check, is the top prong meant to be aligned at 12 oclock 6 oclock when the wheels are pointed perfectly straight?

Because my steering wheel was obviously put on straight, thats where the prongs are set up, so its probably just all working.. will do some hot laps tommorow just to be sure. :(

Yeah, I have an alpine unit, its a fold-out single din.. i'll show you some pics tommorow.

Xenarc? i'm guessing its a double din unit? I almost went this route, Try removing your ashtray + cigarette lighter (assuming your not a smoker), and install your AC din there, then you'll have enough room. :rofl:

blur: Thanks mate! I really love how its stock too :rofl:

lwells: I'll put HICAS into diagnostics mode tommorow and find out whats going on..

Ahhh.. I thought it may have been one of those double din touchscreens you can pick up pretty cheap on eBay that are compatabile with pretty much all formats..

How bigs the monitor? :( I really wanted something like this for my car so I can pull wireless net, check my email, use im.. etc. Is it OSX compatible? I have always wanted to set one of these up in the car. It really is the perfect OS for a touchscreen. And the unit is basically DIN sized:

http://www.apple.com.au/macmini/

That is the sh*t Lucien.. I wonder if you can get a mini working with those.

Are we all sure this thread should be in the general section?

New Sub Forum? :rofl:

Anyways, let me show off my toy,

ALPINE IVA D-300E

IVA-D300E.jpg

The only in-car touch screen in the world with PulseTouch.. its a bit of wank really, basically when you press a button, you can hear it click, it depresses visually, and the section you are touching is "charged" somehow under your fingers so you can feel a "click".. Its cool. You can run your sweaty index finger over the screen (without looking at it) and feel the buttons press/depress. Does DVD/Mp3/Cds/iPod/TV etc

I'll post some pics of the GTR tommorow once its installed..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...