Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/gals,

Just in the process of doing a bit more suspension work to my R33 series 1 GTS25 sedan as I intend to do more track racing, since I have already done the shocks, springs and front strut brace, I thought the next logical thing to do is upgrade the sway bars, the front will be easy enough, but the car I own doesn't have a rear sway bar.

Is this normal on the GTS25 sedans or is my car some sort of freak?

If someone owns a R33 GTS25 sedan, could you please tell me if yours has a rear sawy bar.

And do the R33 GTS25 coupes have a rear sway bar?

Any info would be appreciated, thanks

my r33 coupe came with factory sway bar, it has SKYLINE is red lettering on it

I think it was factory option as part of a nismo sports pack or some crap

as it came with a matching strut bar stock

my r33 coupe came with factory sway bar, it has SKYLINE is red lettering on it

 I think it was factory option as part of a nismo sports pack or some crap

 as it came with a matching strut bar stock

That sounds more like a strut brace than a sway bar...

Strut brace = in the boot or the engine bay...

Sway bar = under the car...

FWIW, my R33 GTS25t Sedan had front & rear sway bars from the factory... No strut braces though...

I've since upgraded to Whiteline adjustable swaybars front & rear... I also have a front strut brace now...

I've got my old rear sway bar sitting here if you think it might be of any use to you Rachel?

Agreed ^^^^ The photo paulr33 has is def. a rear strut brace... not swaybar.

My GTS25 Coupé had front and rear swaybars too, have also upgraded to thicker whiteline parts.

Reduces quite alot of bodyroll, definately a must have for any twisty turny type driving.

Thanks for the replys, much appreciated.

Strutto; thanks for the offer, but the one I'm interested in was ment for a R33 GTS25T, (It's quite a bit thicker than standard aparently) the guy got it specially imported in for his car, and then crashed the car before the sway bar was fitted.

So his loss will hopefull be my gain if I can get it to fit.

So do all R33 coupes have rear sway bars, and the N/A sedans don't?

Or was it an option for all the N/A's?

sway bars do what exactly?

They reduce body roll when cornering, giving more stability.

As you go around bends corners etc, one side of the car will be under greater load, and the inner wheel will be under more pressure and the outer wheel will lift slightly. By adding a larger sway bar this should reduce this effect and even out the pressure on both wheels helping to eliminate body roll, and giving more traction to the outer wheel.

If anyone can explain it a bit clearer please do so.

any idea on what an r32 gts (non turbo) would have for sway bars? I have a front adjustable no name job strut brace.. and a home made box section steel rear strut brace (works GREAT) just wondering what sway bar options i'd have since i've done the strut braces.. a gtst would be a good upgrade for me mabye? or even better than a gtst?

Shouldn't this thread be in the suspension section?:(

I guess it should be, but the reason I posted it here was due to the car in question being an N/A, and it seems that most people on the forums that race on the track own Turbo powered cars. So I felt that it would be easier to get comparisons from other N/A skyline owners.

Sorry for any inconvenience

maybe its just me, but I get the feeling people are confusing strut braces with sway bars..

skyla is pretty spot on with the swaybar description.

IMO I would go for the thickest possible for a set of swaybars.

I got a set of whiteline swaybars adjustables for 27mm... remember to get a wheel alignment done after you install them.

maybe its just me, but I get the feeling people are confusing strut braces with sway bars..

skyla is pretty spot on with the swaybar description.

IMO I would go for the thickest possible for a set of swaybars.

I got a set of whiteline swaybars adjustables for 27mm... remember to get a wheel alignment done after you install them.

you don't need to get a wheel alignment done after fitting such an item.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...