Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

i have got a 95 R33 GTST, with Apexi BOV, 3inch turbo back exhaust, Pod filter with heat shield and running standard boost. i want to know where do i go from here.

do i get a FMIC (Hybrid)

do i get a upgrade computer (Apexi Power FC)

or is there something else that i have over looked that you recommend

Keep in mind i want more power, but am new skylines and do not much about cars, although i'm trying to learn.

and can i get more boost pressure from my car as is with buying a boost controller....if so how?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/
Share on other sites

not gonna feel effects of a fmic... unless you get something to tune it like you say a pfc.... but a safc is cheaper and should be fine for your mods so far...thats if you get a fmic...

my suggestion is a ~$60 bleed valve and run 10psi instead of stock then you feel some serious power difference from stock :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1091535
Share on other sites

I see you have done the normal induction and exhaust mods, so adding a FMIC would be a good idea. However as fane said you then have the problem of tuning: S1 R33 GTS-ts are also notorious for having shocking fuel economy if the standard ECU is left in place (ie. no PFC or SAFC) once you do intake + exhaust + FMIC.

Bit of a catch-22. Maybe try the FMIC first, then save for the PFC. Or do it the other way round.. doesn't really matter in the end :P

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1091544
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys..........this maybe a stupid question but what does SAFC stand for, what are they worth.....

Fane you said to get a bleed valve, are they easy to install yourself? is it simply a plug n play on does it require playing around with to get it work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1092279
Share on other sites

SAFC = Super Air Flow Converter.

Benefit of a catch can is that it 'catches' oil/gas blowby, at least in theory: if is a decent catch can it will have some sort of baffle that will seperate the oil/crud from the air. This stops the oil/crud from recirculating back through your engine.

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1092353
Share on other sites

If you want to keep it in one piece, first item should have been the biggest cooler you can afford. Summer is almost here, turbo engines really drop power in the heat and the standard cooler is a joke. It's the best insurance you can buy against pinging or overboost, which is what will happen with bleed valves etc until you can afford a decent aftermarket ecu.

Not much good having a cool sounding BOV with no ring lands left.

There is a well worn path to making power in the R33 in Zoom magazine.

It's pretty spot on as my son's 33 has 170rwkw with cooler, exhaust, blended dump and filter. Now it's run out of fuel so that's fuel pump, regulator, injectors, Apexi pfc and boost control. Then it will be turbo time.

Pretty logical steps.

Stay cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1092384
Share on other sites

Yep.

Cooler and PFC and bleed valve.

but, opposed to grigor, I would say PFC first. you will get much more bang for your buck, and to deal with the cooler, get your hands on a standard R34 GTT cooler which is good for up to 190 - 200 kW and unless you are on boost all the time, should be fine.

then when you have the money get the big cooler, sell the small one and Bob's your uncle.

Power benifit from FMIC alone, maybe 8-10 rwkW, PFC alone, more like 25rwkW

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1092537
Share on other sites

pfc can change ignition and the fuel maps (afrs)

safc can only change the afrs....by tricking the computer with different airflow readings...

Super Air Flow Converter

www.apexi.com

i would suggest safc over pfc only for price....

bleed valve just snip tube, block stock bleed thingo i think and 2ez your running 10psi with a good fuel map (safc).

so hot weather wont hurt you car at all because of the nice afrs from your safc...

a fmic by itself wont do much, a pfc isnt worth it until you get bigger mods....and if your not planning to do them then i wouldnt bother with pfc and i would just get a safc.

my mods that in my sig is what i called stage 1 in performance....cheap bolts ons and a safc...which i put in myself...then tuned by me and my mechanic with thingo in exhaust to monitor the afrs....my car never knocked.....and i just pulled off my turbo and there is no shaft play.....and i ran 13psi for quite a while....with a fmic ofcourse....always let car warmup before boosting helps look after your turbo and making sure it doesn knock (good fuelmap and safc can monitor)

my suggestion as i said before, is mods below if thats where you are gonna stop....if you are getting a bigger turbo and stuff like that later i would get the pfc to save you the money later on.

EDIT: Mods arnt in sig anymore, so here they are...

note: not including suspension and clutch and crap like that

ebc (short term, bleed valve)

pod

turbo back

safc2

fmic

13psi (10 without fmic)

i think thats it

running 10psi and no fmic or safc i got 13.8 down the 1/4

running 13psi and fmic and safc with about 11.8 afrs (no knocking) i got 13.2 down the 1/4 :)

i would have been happy with that but lost licence and had some spare cash so i got a hi-flow...and need some more tuning so gotta get the pfc :)

if you want anymore info heaps of us have been through that stage and we can help...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1092617
Share on other sites

FANE,

Can you help me, i've got two prices for SAFC, once was $170, 5 knob...whatever that means, and the other was $450.

What should i be looking for in a SAFC? brand, specifications.....please keep in mind in know nothing..................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1095086
Share on other sites

Forget about the 5 knob thing.

It's very very old.

Best value would be to fork out the moolah for a PowerFC first before anything else.

Then when you do more stuff, you don't need to change your management to cope with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1095127
Share on other sites

Fane.

I figure that but.

Let's work it out on a bang for buck scale....

PowerFC

Expected result 25rwkW

Cost inc tuning $1500 (group buy and $500 to tune)

= $60 per kilowatt.

SAFC

Expected result 10rwkW

Cost inc tuning $650 ($450 and $200 to tune)

= $65 per kilowatt.

So bang for your buck, and outright increase in grunt. PFC has it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1095198
Share on other sites

Fair enough.

but I had my PowerFC tuned at a local tuner last week for $185.

Is wasn't sure of the prices in Sydney.

Extrapolate and you get $47.50 per kilowatt

Well, as the saying goes.......... Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56284-what-should-i-do/#findComment-1095241
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...