Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

350Z was sold locally.. no possible way to import it, legally, or even illegally.

Its really not too easy to "sneak" a whole car through the whole customs process and the many checks that are done. Give up that idea.

350Z was sold locally.. no possible way to import it, legally, or even illegally.  

Its really not too easy to "sneak" a whole car through the whole customs process and the many checks that are done. Give up that idea.

hu ?? there IS a way

find someone to buy it on the cheap over in jap land, or is selling one over there(and owned it for min 12 months) then pay them to come to australia for a little holiday and bring the car with them as a private import

i know several people that have done this on a few cars

no doubt the reason why they might ban personal imports... idiots abusing the system.

Anyhow, even if your little friend comes on a little "holiday" unless they are or becoming a resident I don't see how its possible.

Its shifty, even if it can be done, and that all there is to it.

Visitors, temporary residents, foreign diplomatic personnel, companies and corporations are not eligible to import a vehicle under the personal import scheme.

This scheme allows a vehicle to be imported as a personal import without proof that it meets the ADRs, but the vehicle is expected to provide a level of safety similar to Australian vehicles.

To be eligible for a personal import the following criteria must be satisfied:

the vehicle has been owned and used by the applicant for a continuous period of at least 12 months (3 months where ownership and use of the vehicle commenced before 8 May 2000);

at the time the vehicle is imported, the applicant is:

an Australian citizen or an Australian permanent resident; or

a person who has applied to become an Australian citizen or an Australian permanent resident;

the applicant is of an age that entitles him or her to hold a licence or a permit to drive a road vehicle of that type;

the applicant undertakes to comply with any requirements as to road safety that are imposed in respect of the vehicle by the Administrator; and

the applicant has not imported a road vehicle owned by him/her within the year ending on the day on which the vehicle in respect of which the application is made is landed in Australia.

Well I guess if you had a mate who was still an Australian citizen overseas you might be able to ship one over per year. Or I guess you could "apply" to become an australian citizen, and then never go through with it...

akeenan good one...:(

As stated only Australians are allowed personal imports and only after 12 months of ownership with the accompanied documentation to prove.

I see no reason in buying one in Japan, they are still too new and I can tell your not going to save that much...and you've said it yourself "a bit cheaper".

  • 2 weeks later...

I looked into all this with importing a car from the UK. I also corresponded with a couple of people at DOTARS and I second what Predator says. It is virtually impossible to abuse the system but even if you have the option to, its not worth it for it could make it harder in the future for your fellow Japanese car owners revise legislation as a result.

My advice for a legit import, go and live in Japan for over 12 months and then bring the car in that way as from my understanding that is the legal way. Having said that, I am not sure on Aus released cars if that is correct but maybe someone else on here knows.

  • 3 years later...

On the Jspec site, it implys that if a car has been published in a specialist mag like hot4s, that it can be imported.

I want to import a 350z cause all the ones being sold here 2nd hand arnt what I am looking for.

Specialist & Enthusiast Vehicle Scheme (S.E.V.S.)

All vehicles are now judged using the new S.E.V.S.ruling system. There is no easy way to explain this quickly but basically vehicles must meet 2 out of the following 4 criteria:

  • Be significantly different in appearance to vehicles sold new in Australia


  • Have unusual design features to anything sold new locally


  • Performance greater than 105kw/ton
    , or unusually good economy


  • Be featured in specialist publications
    (eg. High performance imports, Zoom, etc.)


Edited by NissanFan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...