Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Gearbox In A Gtst??? Is It Possible??

85URK
 Share

Recommended Posts

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
Posted

hi fellow skyliners, i have a question, i was speaking to this guy who owns a R33 95 RB25 powered gtst practically standard, and he told me that his car has a different gearbox than mine, he reckons that his had a gtr box fitted to it when he bought it like that. now to my knowledge the gtr has a 4WD gearbox which mates up with the 2 diffs, and as far as i know if you were able to fit it to a rwd it would have a drive shaft hanging off it?? am i correct or is this guy just having a lend of me. thanks ppl for you time, and also what year/month did the R33 gtst series 1.5 stay in production till they changed to the series 2. thanks 85URK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56732-gtr-gearbox-in-a-gtst-is-it-possible/
Share on other sites
mcnamg Veteran

mcnamg

Posted
Posted

i thought that internally the gearboxes were the same but the gtr box has the fittings on it for the transfer case? also cant you run a skyline gtr in 2wd by just disconnecting the front driveshaft from the gearbox? I dont know how this would go long term but this could be the case??

I could be wrong but thats the impression that I am under

cheers

Glenn

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i thought that you could only do the 2wd/4wd switch in the R32 gtrs, but if you actually dropped the drive shafts in the front u mite be able to do it in the R33 gtr's, im not sure myself?? any1 else got any ideas?? he mite be having a LEND of me! (My mate that is)

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

another thing i just read was that there is a limited edtion R33 gtst?? does any1 know how to tell the different between the 2 of them?? as ive never heard of these before, there probably out there i just havent seen 1. is there any difference between the 2 and whats the easiest way to tell

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

Limited edition? Apart from the Series 1/Series 2 / Type M variants (which are pretty standard), there were some 1997 GTSTs with 40th Anniversary Skyline insignia, which included side badges, and trimming on the seats.

Only other limited release 33 I can think of is the Active LSD GTST. Easy to spot as on the dash there are lights for 'traction' and 'slip' - or something like that. It has the same diff that is in the GTR VSpec. There's a few people who have these cars on the forums.

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

is the only way to tell the 97 model series 2 by the front bar?? like do they all have twin round lights in the front bar (the round orange 1 and the round white 1) and do some of the series 2 skylines have the same front bar as the series 1.5?? or are they all got the twin round lights on each side.

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh yeah. no worries so they went series 1 from (93 or 94 not sure when they started - 95), series 1.5 = (95 - 96) series 2 = (96 - 97) coz my friend reckons his skyline is a 97 model, but it doesnt have the different front bar like the 97 models. mine is a 95 gtst with the square wing on the boot lid. and no round lights in the front bar only the clear indicators.

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

here what you "could"do....get a Getrag 6 speed from a supra and change the input shaft to a 34GTR one and run a 34 GTR bell housing/front case....93 onwards supra has a getrag V160/161 transmission and as do a 34 GTR...but they have a diffrent extension housing but the main trans is the same...ratios and all

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have a R33 gtst, and im asking bcoz a guy i know rekcons his skyline has a GTR box in his R33 gtst and i was wondering if he was bullshiting or not?? if its possible, and if it was would it be cost affective for some1 to do that. i think hes full of shit (i dont believe he has 1 in his if u could put 1 in anyway) i think hes just having a lend of me.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

it woudlnt be worth it as internally they are similar and also the housing of a gtr gearbox if different, as is the floorplan of a gtr, so you would be stupid to fit a gtr box into a gtst it would be difficult and expensive.

also to clear some things up the 40th anniversary edition r33s were also sold in 1998(not sure if they were sold in 97, all the ones i have seen are 98 models)

if your friend has not got the correct front bar, it cant be a 96-97-98 model because the series two bar does not fit flush with the headlights on a series one.

your car would be a later 95 model, with the hi rise series 2 spoiler.

to check when his car was made just look at the australian compliance plate, it will state when the car was manufactured.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

yep thats right the compliance plate will tell you, the japanese one does not have the date of manufacture on it so dont bother looking at that :)

also its not a series 2 if it does not have 2 air bags, and a different interior and steering wheel to yours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...