Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

as my car is for sale because im buying a house, im downgrading considerably to around the $5000 mark.

im most likely going to get a stock v6 vl commodore and keep it stock for a few years.

however this popped up, and is in only down the road from my house.

Porsche

1982 924 porsche. does anybody know anything about them? most importantly are they quick? reliable? basically any info you can give me on them would be great.

it also sais it needs new torque tube bearings, and i have no idea what they are.

so im thinking with some nice rims and a black respray it could turn out to be a little gem, and i can tell people im 19 and own a porsche haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56996-thinking-about-buying-a-porsche/
Share on other sites

dude, your treading a fine line when buying a old perfromance car. the engines arnt as long on this earth as "normal" engines. when something goes, you WILL get raped by the costs. my dad has a current model BMW. he got the car serviced and they had to replace a few gear. the price was through the roof. a porsche is a much more expensive car brand and the avalibility of parts will be lacking. i can understand the temptation though :D

the 924 was not considered a "true" porsche because of the engine being up front, rather than the rear which they are renowed for.

yeah this was my main concern, servicing etc.  

i just searched and a few reveiws came up saying that servicing and parts arent to bad.

were they all turbos are are some n/a?

hey, 944s came out in non turbo. if you really want an old porsche get a 944, later models are nicer but a lot more than 5 grand! they were regarded at the time as a very good car.

only buy it if you are prepared to spend lots of time and probably $$ on maintenance if u drive it around a lot.

Sounds pretty nice but I reckon running costs would be just as high as the Skyline...

I really don't know much about Porsches except for that they cost a fair bit for parts and servicing. I'd prefer the Porsche over the VL but you really can't go wrong with the RB30E thats in them, my 31 is 16 years old with the RB30 and the only problem I've had was losing 3rd and 4th yesterday....

The 924 was the car that Porsche like to erase from their history if they could wind back time. yes so they are the absolute piles. get a 928 if u must have a porsche , they are more robust and the performance bargain of the century, a porsche v8 in a front engine configuration, drive a hoot too, for those that say they're not the same as the 911, i like to see them pedal a 911 against the 928 in any condition for car of similar vintage, BTW i'm not a porsche fan, HAHA.

some will argue this.............but i dont reckon it's possible to buy, pay insurance and maintain a decent sports car on the cheap.  it cost's money.....................the insurance for a 19 year old male driving a porshe too would be nucking futs.

As stated by Squizz, a 924 is an Audi, it has a porka badge to sell it. I would say a rival to it would be an old school rwd celica... They should be burnt.

A 944 is a porsche however, a LOT more ridgid, better engine etc, they are what the 924 would have been if porsche did it from scratch. A 968 was going to be a 944, but they changed too much stuff to keep the name.

928s in my oppinion arent too crach hot, I know of someone in the US who ripped out the porka engine and put in a 350 chev as it was cheaper to run, more reilable, cheaper on parts, made more power, was quicker, and 150kgs LIGHTER.

The 924 was supposed to be a VW, but when VW didn't want the project any more, Porsche sold it under their own name. The early ones did use an Audi four-pot. They are slow, but can handle well with a little work. I've often wondered if the 1.8T wouldn't drop right in, I bet it would.

914 would be a much better choice for a cheap porker.

ok well i guess that idea can be soundly put to sleep.

i was considering it as it was only 5k and down the road. im not to struck on owning a porsche, but this came up and i figured what the hell? but the resounding thought is that its sh*t and a waste of money.

by the way im not selling the skyline because i can't afford it, i can afford it easily, but im buying a house so the car has to go.

looks like my mates VL is the go, should be ok i guess, a few nice mods, only $3500 it'll do for the time being

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...