Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Front ones - minimum $700 (AUD). Side ones when you find out get two sets Pleeeeze.

I got mine on the car when I got it. Out of Japland. Have not seen local shops withem. Doesnt mean they dont have em just that I have not seen em.

$700 omfg is that a spelling mistake ??? who would pay $700 for a set of side indicators :D

A pair of front ones for R32 $700. Side ones dunno neva seen em even on Jap sites. But there is really nice ones on that green BMW that parks out the front of my work. Hope they work late one night. He he he. J/K

Damn.....

Yea they look nice but, $700.... yea well shes mah baby so what the hell...

Where can you get dem from?

Sides, if seen people with em, but there dif shapes... so they obviously are useing ones off dif cars.. But i found a Merc with Clear ones, and also a Camry has em...Same shape just clear.

Guest two.06l
Hey all...

Anyone know where to get Clear indicator for a R32 GTST

Thats the Side guards and the front ones...

And aprox what they are worth.

Thanx :):D

we have a set of D-speed front indicators, paid $450 for them (new in box). Mazda 6 side indicators fit the sides and are $35 a side (hole in guard needs to be modified)

lol.....

Good work. BTW anyone know how much those 2 GTR's are goin for at ed's???

Im very keen on getting one

I Wouldnt bother. Rolling shells ATM went chrissy shopping 2nite! But seriously Ed can hook you up with the owner. Blue for sale the other is drivin by the owner.

If anyone is keen to upgrade from a 33 or 32 GTS-T I have contact with a 32 GTR with a fair bit of new gear running genuine 290rwkw's. New motor, turbs, brakes, wheels, rubber (Brand name stuff) and a fair bit more. Straight and clean. Was keen on getting it prior to the GTR I bought.

The Lads under pressure ATM with a new bubs and house. Should be a good buy. Originally adv @ 35k, down to 32k expect in the vicinity of 28k. PM me for a flyer.

R

its going VERY cheap actually stirlo.

but i wouldnt bother trade in Andrew, you'll never get anything like what its worth, especially from evo! just sell it, yours is a very different look for a 32 with that kit and someone will be bound to snap it up. but ask any of the guys with gtr's here, you have to be able to afford to fix them, and thats where the real slap in the face is, but i would definatly encourage you to go and check out stirlos, well worth it and cheap as hell!

regarding the front quarter panel indicators, the R32 didnt come out stock with indicators there, they are added at the compliance stage, so what fits on one may not fit on another 32, so i reckon if you find some that you like, find out how to get them and do it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...