Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Im having Issues with my Skyline , when im in high rev's and i put my car from 3rd to 4th gear it crunches or from 5th to 4th so basically my 4th gear is rooted.

Anyways i need a honest mechanic that does repairs on gear boxes

Western Suburbs area would be convenient.

If anyone knows of a mechanic it would be greatly appreciated if you could forward their details

Thanks :Oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57246-need-a-mechanic-for-gearbox/
Share on other sites

yeah ill do that striaght away

but i just dont understand why its only happening in Gear 4

just wondering where i can get Redline Lightweight Shockproof from?

happens to a lot of the Skyline boxes (different gears not just 4th). Mine struggles to get into 1st when stationary but other than that it's fine.

you can get redline shockproof from Unique Autosports :cheers:http://www.nismo.com.au/

I had the same problem in my R33 GTSt.

It got pretty bad one night at a street meet. Every run it would crunch slightly going into 4th no matter how much clutch I had in.

Went into Unique Autosports a couple of weeks later to get Redline stuff put into the diff and gearbox and I can't believe how smoother it is, gears go in so smooth, feels brand new.

After you change the oil if it is still crunchy dont worry about it too much, it is very common and driving normally it shouldnt be too annoying, downshifting just double clutch if its that bad, but definetly dont go get the rebuilt just because of crucnhing, they are all like that :)

double clutch when u downshift if u cant get it into gear (google it if u dont know what it is)

but still definetly change the gbox oil...u dont have to get redline but it seems to work (more or less got rid of crunching in my gtst box) very expensive though, u get it in 3.9L bottles and its $100-120

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...