Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i have a rb20det in my vl commy

im going to install a boost guage but i keep reading to install it up near the plenum?

wouldnt you install it closest to the turbo so i know what pressure the turbo is putting out and not what pressure the plenum is recieving after going round pipes and through the intercooler?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57648-another-boost-guage-question/
Share on other sites

hey mate, i would install it as close to the plenum as possible so you know exactly what boost the engine it getting after the boost drop has occurred in the plumbing, there wont be alot of boost drop though unles you have a leak.

i think it's just better to know what the motor is getting??

i guess it just comes down to personel preference in the end??

it wont really make alot of difference where you hook it up, just do it in the most convenient place, away from heat sources (exhaust) to protect the hose. try make the hose as short as possible so your guage respondes quicker.

If you are running a stock ceramic turbo, then it's probably safest to get the signal at the compressor. Then you can be safe in the knowledge that the exhaust wheel is not going to let go and de-glaze your bores.

If you have a steel exhaust wheel, then it's probably best to know exactly how much boost the engine is trying to ingest, and therefore pick up the signal at the plenum.

Jun's 1000hp R33 GTR has 2 boost gadges and 3 water temp gadges...

1 x boost at turbo

1 x boost at plenium

1 x temp inbetween cyl1-2

1 x temp inbetween cyl3-4

1 x temp inbetween cyl5-6

Thats the only way to have all the info i guess......!!! (Too much money)

Just put the adaptor that you get with the gauge onto the back of the plenum where the factory boost gauge gets its reading from. Its facing the firewall, the fitting should screw stright in.

Thats what I did when installing mine in the new car the other day.. The adapter screw fits into the standard plenum position perfectly (was a Speco gauge and std. kit it comes with). Unscrew the stock one, screw direct in the plenum. All done - nice plenum reading.

A 1000hp package requires that degree of monitoring given that you're sitting on a hand grenade and the gauges alone are worth a fair bit. It helps that JUN have deep pockets too. :) For our needs, I believe one of each gauge is more than adequate.

But of course if you want 50x gauges, then the spank factor is always good I guess :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...