Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i have a rb20det in my vl commy

im going to install a boost guage but i keep reading to install it up near the plenum?

wouldnt you install it closest to the turbo so i know what pressure the turbo is putting out and not what pressure the plenum is recieving after going round pipes and through the intercooler?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57648-another-boost-guage-question/
Share on other sites

hey mate, i would install it as close to the plenum as possible so you know exactly what boost the engine it getting after the boost drop has occurred in the plumbing, there wont be alot of boost drop though unles you have a leak.

i think it's just better to know what the motor is getting??

i guess it just comes down to personel preference in the end??

it wont really make alot of difference where you hook it up, just do it in the most convenient place, away from heat sources (exhaust) to protect the hose. try make the hose as short as possible so your guage respondes quicker.

If you are running a stock ceramic turbo, then it's probably safest to get the signal at the compressor. Then you can be safe in the knowledge that the exhaust wheel is not going to let go and de-glaze your bores.

If you have a steel exhaust wheel, then it's probably best to know exactly how much boost the engine is trying to ingest, and therefore pick up the signal at the plenum.

Jun's 1000hp R33 GTR has 2 boost gadges and 3 water temp gadges...

1 x boost at turbo

1 x boost at plenium

1 x temp inbetween cyl1-2

1 x temp inbetween cyl3-4

1 x temp inbetween cyl5-6

Thats the only way to have all the info i guess......!!! (Too much money)

Just put the adaptor that you get with the gauge onto the back of the plenum where the factory boost gauge gets its reading from. Its facing the firewall, the fitting should screw stright in.

Thats what I did when installing mine in the new car the other day.. The adapter screw fits into the standard plenum position perfectly (was a Speco gauge and std. kit it comes with). Unscrew the stock one, screw direct in the plenum. All done - nice plenum reading.

A 1000hp package requires that degree of monitoring given that you're sitting on a hand grenade and the gauges alone are worth a fair bit. It helps that JUN have deep pockets too. :) For our needs, I believe one of each gauge is more than adequate.

But of course if you want 50x gauges, then the spank factor is always good I guess :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...