Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I imported my car before you could get them im withiout having the air con gas removed so atm my system has no gas in it and the little bottle is sitting in my back seat.

Ive heard that you need to replace all the seals on the system as the R134A gas that they use these day will eat through the seals on the system set up for the old 12A gas.

Firstly is this correct?

Secondly if it is how much am i looking at and can anyone recomend a place from the southland area that will do it and not cost me an arm and a leg.

Thanks

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57928-air-conditioning-regas/
Share on other sites

The seals should be replaced if the job is done properly, plus the receiver-dryer (the old one is probably that little bottle you mention) and they change the oil in the pump. Hoses don't usually need changing if they are in good nick.

You are looking at about $250 - that was what I was quoted, but my car came into the country charged with R12 and still cleared customs. Not a word from DEH.....yet (knock on wood ;) ).

I use a mob called Kar Air in Ferntree Gully, but that's probably a bit far for you.

Ive heard that you need to replace all the seals on the system as the R134A gas that they use these day will eat through the seals on the system set up for the old 12A gas.

Firstly is this correct?

Auto Cooling Clayton Pty Ltd

10 Westall Rd Clayton VIC 3168

ph: (03) 9562 4811

I was looking around about a year ago in the same area, and these guys were the cheapest I found, and the most professional. Gave me very good honest advice...

They also make intercoolers, and re-do end tanks and stuff...

Oh, and BTW, he also told me he has a replacement gas for the older type, so it wont cost as much...

nevermind managed to fidn a place on warrigal rd that will replace the bottle and the seals and regas for $160. not bad at all so im booked in for next wednesday

Cool, my car is in that areaq at the moment...and my car needs re-gassing as the mechanic didnt have time to do it after changing the engine in my POS.

Can you post phone/contact details:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...