Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sounds awesome ...

:D

running in the 10's is a awesome achievement

Sure is, was the first S13 to run a 10 in Australia as well.

The dude I sold the car too, is after 9's!! eek! You rb-s13 boys need to do some catching up :D

Josh.

i am fullboost from silviansw.com lol  

and yes it is laggy  

but when boost comes on boy is it fun :rolleyes:

so fun that it forced my bonnet to fly open and smash on the roof haha

dam

haha i knew those plates were familiar...

Nismo_Boy, sounds like an animal, could you scan article and post up :P

  • Like 1

Alot of jaws will drop for sure, make some awesome times, and a lot of people un-happy. IMHO the cars in in-bread... I'm not really a fan of other make motor's in other cars. 10 points to the person for being different...

dangerous dave: sasha's car is using my old engine. Currently his set up is making more power then what i was in my skyline when i went 12.6 @ 120mph. And he has the potential to make even ALOT more power...

Yah, I know the engine :( I didnt think he had finished it, I havent seen him out for yonks. Does he take it out on the street at all or???

I would be interested to see what sort of boost levels/rpm & if the head has any work to make 260rwkw+.

I really think it is pushing the limits of reliability with the little ol' RB20DET.

Rev's will need to be very high as will the boost levels due to the inlet airflow restriction of the rb20t head.

Made 220rwkw need injectors, maxing out

Post your mods GTStR32...

Go ahead and post your mods dyno #'s up Roy!

Sk... could you give us some mods and stats on one of your old RB20's (you've sent some to me but it'd be nice to have this kind of data in one post... the reason I started this one)?

Sk... could you give us some mods and stats on one of your old RB20's (you've sent some to me but it'd be nice to have this kind of data in one post... the reason I started this one)?

As most people know I don't aim for high max power, for circuit racing average power is far more important. So my RB20's won't set any records for max power output. The best I have seen is 225 rwkw at 1.25 bar, that's with;

R32 GTR intercooler

Power FC with boost controller

GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo

GTR camshafts and adj pulleys

Split dump, no cat, 3.25" exhaust

RX7S5T injectors, Z32 fuel pump

POD, heat shield, ambient air feed

Standard internals (170,000 ks)

Electric fan

That combo gave me good power from 4,500 rpm to 8,000 rpm and that's what made it work well with the standard gearbox and diff ratios.

;)

...

Go ahead and post your mods dyno #'s up Roy!

 

I thought i must havce bored everyone with my rantings about RB20s:(

Std wrecker RB20, with:

- HKS Hyper Exhaust with 3" cat

- HKS Filter

- Bosch 040 Fuel pump

- GTR injectors

- Apexi Power FC

- HKS Type S Intercooler

- Apexi AVCR

- Trust TD06-20g with 10cm housing, Trust SS manifold and Type R wastegate

- 19row oil cooler and remote filler

The Pfc tune is meant to be conservative, and compared to another RB20 with similar power i have a lot less ignition...i dunno about fuelling, perhaps Chris can comment as he has the same injectors, ecu but different tuner.

The car ran a 13.4 @108mph with slipping clutch and 1bar. Every time i tried more boost the thing would get a miss, so until i get that sorted thats about all me and my car can muster:)

Winton this weekend so will see how the setup goes in lap traffic, i think i will struggle, with a clear lap i can keep it on boost, but in traffic i think i will be struggling to overtake cars:(

462Dyno5-med.jpg

As most people know I don't aim for high max power, for circuit racing average power is far more important.  So my RB20's won't set any records for max power output.  The best I have seen is 225 rwkw at 1.25 bar, that's with;

R32 GTR intercooler

Power FC with boost controller

GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo

GTR camshafts and adj pulleys

Split dump, no cat, 3.25" exhaust

RX7S5T injectors, Z32 fuel pump  

POD, heat shield, ambient air feed

Standard internals (170,000 ks)

Electric fan

That combo gave me good power from 4,500 rpm to 8,000 rpm and that's what made it work well with the standard gearbox and diff ratios.

;)

Do you think you could run that setup @ the 1.25 bar on 93-94 octane here in the states?

Useable is key... always good to hear differing opinions. Since RB25 turbo's aren't common here I'm considering some of the Garrett GT offerings... like the cousin of the HKS GT2835 which I've been told is the GT3071R offered at www.atpturbo.com (http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/po...Cat=&Board=UBB9 has some good results of SR's running this turbo along with the 2871R). Buying a house is first... but it's always good to see other peoples inputs.

Looks like 225'ish might end up being the goal I'm shooting for... but those guys are getting decent graphs with those 3071's in SR's...

I'm never tired of seeing RB20 info Roy!

The Pfc tune is meant to be conservative, and compared to another RB20 with similar power i have a lot less ignition...i dunno about fuelling, perhaps Chris can comment as he has the same injectors, ecu but different tuner.

462Dyno5-med.jpg

Hey mate, been really busy at work so haven't been able to get on here much of late!

Roy's tune is quite conservative compared to mine, heaps more fuel jsut about everywhere once on boost (bigger turbo kinda does that!) but much less igntion timing up top, I guess due to the tuner wanting to keep the motor alive under track conditions

My tune will need looking at as soon as my dump pipe gets finished (been almost 5 weeks waiting for a custom flange :P ) Mine now gets quite lean up top due to switching from a bleed valve when it was tuned to a EBC which is holding boost up top much better.

Last friday I had a run up at Mallala ;) It was getting pretty high on the knock indicator as soon as I ran more than 1 bar, even with 100 octane fuel it would get up around 30-40. I ended up adding fuel and taking a degree of timing out, but then fuel pump drama's set in and I was unable to run much more

For the sake of this thread - my car is as follows

Standard RB20 - 143,000kms, stock cams and manifolds

HKS 25~ turbo, 2.5" dump and front (to be replaced with 3.5")

PFC, GTR injectors and PFC boost control kit

tuned at 17psi with bleed valve, with boost dropping back to 14psi

205rwkw

Next mod is dump pipe and re-tune and see what it makes, anything over 200rwkw with a RB20 is excellent power

The ex-JMS yellow Silvia used to make around 250rwkw with some sort of Trust turbo

Clint32's car also used to make almost 240rwkw, and has run a 12.8 at 113mph

This chart was last month at 14psi on a dead stock R31 GTS-R with Autronic ECU.

Fuel system couldnt cope and its in the shop now getting GTR injectors and a bigger fuel pump.

Should see 220-240rwkw pretty easily I suspect.

That combo gave me good power from 4,500 rpm to 8,000 rpm and that's what made it work well with the standard gearbox and diff ratios.

Good power at 4,500rpm would be nice. What sort of power are you making at 4.500, 5000, 5,500rpm, 6,000rpm etc etc

I have to suss out my ignition system, as i think its the cause for why sometimes my car goes really well, and other times it doesnt pull that hard and even misses from time to time:confused:

I have about 135rwkws at 4,500rpm, which is about 30-40rwkws off where i want to be. At 5,000rpm i have just over 180rwkws...that where i want to be at 4,500rpm. So rather then get the cams im just going to get the smaller (properly sized) exhaust housing for my turbo.

Then im off to the tuner again to see if he can lean on the engine a bit more. Problem is finding a tuner that knows RB20s, understandably the two i have spoken to have said dont try for more then 220 as reliability gets called into question. Im tempted to say dont worry about that, just tune the thing to mid 11:1 A/F with the sort of ignition you typically throw at a car, and it makes the power it makes. Dont de-tune it to get a lesser power level for reliabiltiy sake.

I would have been better off getting a hi-flow or a 2530 tuned normally and make 210-225rwkws with better response. Or perhaps tune the car normally at 13psi to make the same power?!?!?!?!

I dunno, the tuner did the right thing in giving me a car that he though was reliable, its just that i can be a stubborn idiot, and perhaps i need to kill an RB20 myseld before i start to accept the power level for std internals.

disclaimer

Just some thinking, its not fact, its sadly the thought of dribble that goes thru my head at night when i should be sleeping:(

Why would the safe RB20 power level by say 220rwkws, when...

Ppl generally agree that for an RB25 the power level is 250rwkws for hard track work, around 300rwkws for a road car that never gets sustained thrashing:)

So a late model RB20 in good running order that has never been boosted gets a big turbo. Diddo an RB25. Looking at an RB20 piston they have more meat around the ring land, and are smaller in diameter (ie lighter) then the RB25 piston. So on paper the piston strength seems to be in favour of the RB20 piston.

The rods, well to the best of my knowledge the Grp A R31 GTSR used prepp'd std rods, so they are good things. But std internally doesnt allow for aftermarket rod bolts and prepp'd rods so as a std item the are shorter then the RB25 rods, can anyone comment on whether they are stronger then std RB25 rods?

So then we have bearings etc. I assume (perhaps making an a55 of just me:() that being the same series RB engine, that Nissan use similar grade/quality of bearings in the RB20 to RB25.

Some things Sydneykid pointed out in another thread...

...Large big end bearing sizes so lower lower surface tension for the same rpm.  More metal around the bores in cylinder block and more metal around the combustion chamber in the cylinder head.  

.. Shorter stroke with very strong rods.  Short stroke = shorter crank throw = lighter crank, so stronger crank given the same material and manufacturing processes.  

Also shorter stroke of RB20 means lower piston speeds for same rpm, so less load on bearings etc for given rpm. Also has a lower standard compression ratio...

So the only reason i can think of why an RB20 wont reliably make the same power as a std RB25 is age. But if you have a good nic RB20 that has never been boosted and has been well maintained then that goes a long way, especially since many RB25s are only 18-24 months newer.

Again dont flame me, im not saying RB20 rule...i joke about that often, and trust me i know and admit the limitations of the RB20, its just that when you get thinking about the above, i cant see why ppl are telling me not to try and make 250rwkws out of my turbo setup:confused:

Admittedly the displacement and flow of the head work against the RB20, but if it is making 250rwkws at sane boost?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...