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Damn. been reading through the thread and i cant believe some of the rwhp readings... i just got my new r32gtst dyno'd with some basic mods and i was happy with 258.8 rwhp .. i still get wheelspin in 4th gear when the boost kicks in, how do u guys with such high hp control it to run such good times????

I'll get a pic tomorrow if you want,but yer it's right next to the weld on where all the pipes merge.It is stainless,one of those china ones and I paid $550 for it new.

lol, that'll learn you.

i had some random guy from china get my MSN from here on SAU and tried flogging me China copies etc.

*sigh*

Damn. been reading through the thread and i cant believe some of the rwhp readings...   i just got my new r32gtst dyno'd with some basic mods and i was happy with 258.8 rwhp  .. i still get wheelspin in 4th gear when the boost kicks in, how do u guys with such high hp control it to run such good times????

LOL...you have an issues then:) At first it was fun, but soon becomes frustrating when you are acytually trying to do the 0-400m quickly or get out of tight 2nd gear corners

I just took of completely bald rear tyres, they were 235/40/17s, ok they were semi slicks, but they were so bald nad hard that even the crappy Falken 326 i now run have way more traction. and with 320rwhp i could get 2nds and light it up a little, but onto boost in 3rd and 4th it still tracked straight.

With tonka hard 215/50/16s my car wheelspun coming on boost in 3rd...and those tyres had been sitting in someones back yard for years...so were truly crap, but hey i waas going drifting so just what the Dr ordered:)

So full circle got Flaken 326 which are apparantly a crappy tyre...and it just hints at spinning when onto boost in 2nd, very mild and verty controllable. Will see how the tyre goes when it starts to wear. With new D01Js on the car it strugled to get 2nds and wouldnt spin when coming onto boost in 2nd gear...and i run th eoff the shelf Whiteline works suspension with a singlw plate ceramin Xtreme clutch.

So have a look at wheel alignment, and tyres, a better sorted wheel alignment, shocks/springs and tyres can easily handle 350rwhp

Nick: Your not leaning out and blown the bridges from your spark plugs....?

No, I've had the plugs out three times... always black (fouled). Rear of the car is covered in fuel as well. Have tried a few different types of plugs, different coils... Need to have a workshop take a look at the coil loom I think.

Tune is very conservative to look after the old motor, has plenty more in it but dont want to push it untill there is a replacement ready to go.

Jase, I sold mine for a bit more than that :rofl: Be very interested to see what it makes with the std back on!

Where is the crack?

Damn. been reading through the thread and i cant believe some of the rwhp readings...   i just got my new r32gtst dyno'd with some basic mods and i was happy with 258.8 rwhp  .. i still get wheelspin in 4th gear when the boost kicks in, how do u guys with such high hp control it to run such good times????

When i took the car to the track i was getting wheel spin in 1st, 2nd , and 3rd on boost at 1bar, but i think that has a lot to do with the Pirelli snow tyres that were on the car from Japan :Pimp2:

Outof curiosity for some of you guys running big figures what tyres are you using and find that works the best???

Damn. been reading through the thread and i cant believe some of the rwhp readings...   i just got my new r32gtst dyno'd with some basic mods and i was happy with 258.8 rwhp  .. i still get wheelspin in 4th gear when the boost kicks in, how do u guys with such high hp control it to run such good times????

You don't have too much power, you have too little handling. And as Roy posted there is far more to it than tyres. Pop over to the Suspension thread for more details:cheers:

Ok, time for another update:)

Just finished a Super Sprint at Sandown Raceway, having those nice long straights with relatively slow entries i bumped up the rev limit to 8, 200rpm and rang the things neck to make sure it pulled as much down the straights as possible. Had the shift light at 8,000rpm...car ran rock solid all day.:D

As my old bar needs replacing i cut it open to get more airflow thru the front of the car which saw the coolant temps took an extra lap or so to get to a point where i had to back off.

Ill find out in the morning what boost level i was running. I think i was running 18psi, but the fact that everyone was commenting my car was so loud, perhaps i was running only 15psi with a bit mroe air beign diverted thru the wastegate?!?!?!?!...

Either way it wasnt lacking for grunt down the straights, imagine my laughter when i was pulling away from a 575 Maranello:) lol, thought id be taking it easy in that beast as well considering what its worth:)

I bet Mr prancing horsey wasnt too keen on the old datto! :)  Nice one Roy!

Mate im sure he didnt care, he was in a Ferrari for gods sake, and im sure i was drivoing my thing 10 times harder then he was. Still to be 0.9 seconds quicker then him felt good, especially the old RB20 keeping it honest down the straights so that on the twistes with the semi slicks i could gap him a little:)

Fancy this being beaten by this :)

LOL...then you have to consider the 240Z with RB26 that was 4 seconds quicker then me:(

...8200 rev-limit yeh har!What's the water temp getting to on the track?and what is it when you do normal street driving.

On the street it is normally between 78 and 80. At the track it normally gets up to around 95 after 3 laps. If i keep the rev limit to around 6,200rpm ish then the watre doesnt really go above 90, and i cold drive for 10 laps. But the extra 2,000rpm really knocks out some extra temperature.

One day i might get a radiator, but its easier to drive around with the heater on high and full bore, and back off after 3 laps. it only takesa lap cruising in 5th for temps to drop back to a pint where you can get up it again:)

um.... crappy spec cheap spark plugs @ .66mm gap

boost controller is just a bleed valve. i have had 2 different ones on there and they both hold perfect boost. i try and keep my vaccum lines as short as possible to stop spiking.

i made 298.7 @ 16.5 psi on sat... dyno dynamics

car had been on dyno for about 2 hours tuning so intercooler was getting a bit heat soaked and piping was fairly hot. would have cracked over 300 easy when not so hot

full boost at about 4100-4200 ish and holds dead steady all way to 7500

car drives heaps better now, lots more responsive and a little more top end, fuel is about 11.3-11.7 afrs and Power FC knock count doesnt go above 35 so is very safe.

will post power graph on friday as i dont have a scanner here. will get tuned again in a little while at 18psi and will hopefully get between 320-330rwhp

Thtas a good result. Is that with the Apexi AX53B70 turbo? What exhaust goiusing size, P22? If you can let me know what wheel/tyres you are running? At 221rwkws at 16.5psi it looks like we may have stumbled onto another nice RB20 turbo setup as its low mount, bolts onto the std manifold etc etc. Give it a hit at 18psi and 22psi, go on you know you want to:)

Im waiting to try and get an EBC on my thing again, as with just the bleeder it runs a pretty stable 17/18psi, but you cna hear the gate open before im at full boost so maybe can get a bit more response ou tof the turbo...perhaps your setup is the same? But serisouly that looks to be a great setup:thumbsup:

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