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On the street it is normally between 78 and 80. At the track it normally gets up to around 95 after 3 laps. If i keep the rev limit to around 6,200rpm ish then the watre doesnt really go above 90, and i cold drive for 10 laps. But the extra 2,000rpm really knocks out some extra temperature.  

One day i might get a radiator, but its easier to drive around with the heater on high and full bore, and back off after 3 laps. it only takesa lap cruising in 5th for temps to drop back to a pint where you can get up it again:)

Hi Roy, what's the oil temp like?:)

edit...man i should proof read what i type or get typing lessons:(

It aint brilliant, it gets up to about 110-120degrees pretty quick...yeh, yeh i kow where is my water cooled turbo:)

Over the next few days im going to get some ducting with a new bar sorted..also want to get a channel for the logger hooked up for oil pressure, any ideas on the best way to go about this? Was wanting to stay away from using the factory instrument, but not too sure how to go about/where to instal a pressure sensor???

Thtas a good result. Is that with the Apexi AX53B70 turbo? What exhaust goiusing size, P22?   If you can let me know what wheel/tyres you are running? At 221rwkws at 16.5psi it looks like we may have stumbled onto another nice RB20 turbo setup as its low mount, bolts onto the std manifold etc etc. Give it a hit at 18psi and 22psi, go on you know you want to:)

Im waiting to try and get an EBC on my thing again, as with just the bleeder it runs a pretty stable 17/18psi, but you cna hear the gate open before im at full boost so maybe can get a bit more response ou tof the turbo...perhaps your setup is the same? But serisouly that looks to be a great setup:thumbsup:

yeah thats the turbo, going back to tuners tommorrow to check up on tune and will probably get about 18psi put into it. wheel tyres size, um 17*8 235/45 front and 17*9 255/40 rear.

with a ebc i would imagine a bit more boost response just have to get the cash to afford it

the turbo kits come as a standard manifold bolt on but with its own water/oil lines and new actuator

couple of questions for u fellow rb20det power fc users...

do u have any problems with your tacho, mine seems to jump around when i start to loose traction... it jumps between 7000-9000rpm, when the engine is obviously not doing those revs. makes it really annoying cause i cant work out when to change in first 3 gears hahhaha

also roy can u tell me approx how much timing you are running in the top end of ur map under full load

Should have another dyno graph up today hopefully. Had many niggling ecu troubles of late but looks like its all sorted.

If it goes through its cold start cycle this morning without any hiccups I can pick it up.

Changes made from the 225rwkw run are a different ignition setup, went remote mount VT coils ( didnt see the $600 nengun splitfires oh well ) and spark gap was able to increase from 0.6 to 0.9mm. Also swapped out the GTR injectors for same capacity high impedance 4 pintle Bosch ones that are used in XR6T upgrades.

Outright power has increased to 238rwkw on 12psi and I will see the average gains when I get the graph.

OK I was a bit ambitious to post what I said earlier without seeing the graphs as I assumed boost level was same as before.

Actual boost level this time is a more beleivable 16psi (4,000rpm) but still a result I am happy with considering its the factory turbo.

But.....I didnt even make it home. As alluded to earlier I have had many a drama with the ecu having a mind of its own. Its already been swapped for an exchange unit, been nearly completely rewired and given the poor sod whos task its been to get it right nightmares.

The workshop kept it a few days after they thought it was right to see if anything reared its head and were positive it was working as it should. Before I left, I drove it around the workshops area for 30 minutes and was very happy and gave him the thumbs up.

15kms down the road and its sounding like a WRX again and down on power. Turned round to limp it back and not even a km later it loses another 40% power and stalls and then wont fire up at all. So back to the shop again. I swear modifying cars is for the insane.

The last time I put my RB20det on the dyno it was doing 216 HP @ 118 kph. Since the have rebuilt top end ( found 3 sheared off studs on exhaust manifold, screws missing from valves on carburetta, and leaks everywere...), installed large intercooler, put on a rollerbearing turbo from R32 and replaced dodgy old exhuast.

Still yet to re dyno but am expecting for around 245 HP. will let you know how it goes.

"FATGTS-R : Thats still quite good ! what turbo are you running?"

It is the R31 GTSR factory turbo which is basically a T3 ex housing and a T04 compressor cover and wheels. It also has the factory tubular long runner ex manifold which helps a bit too I guess.

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

IMG_0034.JPG

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

First off let me say that Lumps knows what he is doing. That's a pretty good result for 9 psi, so the tuning must be damn good. Do you have the A/F ratios graph?:(

Hey all,

Just had my RB20 dynoed today and this is the results I got with just a 3" cat back exhaust with 3" pipe in place of cat convertor, factory boost and airpod.

Does that power output sound about right? Because I have a mate who has an R32 and has a full 3" turbo back system with split dump, 12 pound boost and FMIC who put out 198hp and considering the mods he has it seems a bit weird that my car is very close to his hp figure considering the mods.

I would consider myself someone who knows a bit about cars, but I don't know much about tuning for a good hp figure. Basically the sheet doesn't mean much to me but the highest hp figure I got. The A/F ratio to me seems like it is running a crap load rich but I'm wouldn't have a clue. Could anyone please explain to me what the sheet actually tells me rather than just the peak hp figure.

Cheers

Could have something to do with the lack of a cat converter.

First off let me say that Lumps knows what he is doing.  That's a pretty good result for 9 psi, so the tuning must be damn good.  Do you have the A/F ratios graph?:)

Haha nah that was exactly how I recieved the car from Japan with just an airpod and catback exhaust with a straight through pipe added. No tuning involved, just put it on the dyno for two runs to see the power I recieved and thats what I got. Is that result unusually high?

I thought that lower graph the one not showing the hp output was the A/F ratio?

Look at the other side of the graph, its ur boost level!

Pretty decent dyno result

Haha of course. Didn't read the numerical value's and assumed it was the A/F ratio. I wasn't supplied with a A/F graph at the dyno day, should all dyno's supply an A/F ratio graph? Or on dyno days do they just throw the cars through only to test the rwhp output?

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