Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL...a few ppl were looking very hard at my engine on the weekend as a few of the guys know the gear i have laying around and the car had been at the mechanics for a few weeks. So there was some suspicion that it was still my RB20. I think the fact that i left the bonnet restraint on and i didnt lift the bonnet all day also had a few ppl curious.

Why would you spend all that money putting in an RB25 to make 200rwkws max. When for less money you can bolt on a nice turbo and keep the big brother honest :)

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

And it has been reliable. I would like to see how a full 2835 setup would go an RB20. GT30R seem to work well as well, but you are perhaps throwing away a bit too much 3,500-4,500 power to make the big top end. Still those that have done it are still quicker then me over the qtr so...GT30R obviously works as well :)

Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

If i go out on the track with less then a qtr of a tank it gets fuel surge. As long as its above its ok. Couldnt be stuffed with a surge tank. its just more lines in the boot that can be knocked/damaged by stuff thrown back there.

The car is still my daily driver so dont want to lose the practicality of the boost. Some of the jap GTR pumps have a in tank baffle that i may look into if i ever need more flow then the 040 can provide (Highly doubt i will need bigger, i think it flows something like 235L/min?)

Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

Great vid Troy!

the thing with the average RB20 its that they need a good tune (like yours) there's been plenty fail at only 200rwkw due to crap tune/detonation....

IMO - its all in the tune :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...