Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL...a few ppl were looking very hard at my engine on the weekend as a few of the guys know the gear i have laying around and the car had been at the mechanics for a few weeks. So there was some suspicion that it was still my RB20. I think the fact that i left the bonnet restraint on and i didnt lift the bonnet all day also had a few ppl curious.

Why would you spend all that money putting in an RB25 to make 200rwkws max. When for less money you can bolt on a nice turbo and keep the big brother honest :)

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

And it has been reliable. I would like to see how a full 2835 setup would go an RB20. GT30R seem to work well as well, but you are perhaps throwing away a bit too much 3,500-4,500 power to make the big top end. Still those that have done it are still quicker then me over the qtr so...GT30R obviously works as well :)

Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

If i go out on the track with less then a qtr of a tank it gets fuel surge. As long as its above its ok. Couldnt be stuffed with a surge tank. its just more lines in the boot that can be knocked/damaged by stuff thrown back there.

The car is still my daily driver so dont want to lose the practicality of the boost. Some of the jap GTR pumps have a in tank baffle that i may look into if i ever need more flow then the 040 can provide (Highly doubt i will need bigger, i think it flows something like 235L/min?)

Yeh...just a few more hours to get the most out of it. Worth every cent.

Witness...RB20GOODNESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clicky_Right Save As . approx 40meg of RB20 running around Phillip Island

So if mine can hang together after plenty of track work...the average street driven RB20 will be quite at home punching out good numbers

Great vid Troy!

the thing with the average RB20 its that they need a good tune (like yours) there's been plenty fail at only 200rwkw due to crap tune/detonation....

IMO - its all in the tune :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...