Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys im at vic at the moment but im commin there in march i have a question how do you go with road worthys and mods up there and do you know if i even need one when transferring rego over. I have a 33gtst with pod, bov, boost control, fmic, exhaust, power fc, afc...new turbo soon hopefully. so im just wondering how the cops are up there with mods and how you go with road worthys cheers dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/
Share on other sites

well if your gunna live up here and work , you need to get your rego changed within like 3 months i think , but the MVR motor vehicle registery will require you to go over there pits for inspection for rego ... i had no prob's with my car , but others have had to change the odd thing or to , just depends on there mood and who you get . if ya have any prob's when ya get here let me or RBNT know and we can arrange stuff if needed.

http://www.ipe.nt.gov.au/whatwedo/mvr/regi...interstate.html

good luck with the move

cheers

ron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1123431
Share on other sites

yeh thanx guys, my rides all sweet for tyres, height all the general stuff etc it was just mods i was worried about but sounds easy as compared to down here in vic and hopefully i wont have any troubles wit inspection, but yeh cant wait to get there and not worry bout defects do some cruizen and racin see you guys in march/april

cheers dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1124669
Share on other sites

Just an inspection at an authorized Mechanic is needed don't for get to get your licence done at the same time. If you are coming from interstate you have about 3mths to change rego but can check for you as I'm no traffic Nazi. Just remember if it is not standard or engineered it can be defected so if it isn't a plumb back BOV it can be defected etc. But it isn't to bad in the NT but they are thinking about bring the anti hooning law here (it may be here now, been in Groote to long). but remember if you do get stopped it will depend on attitude by you and sometimes the copper. If you want more feed back let me know.

Cheers ICE

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1125982
Share on other sites

We all know that it is easy to get along with the plods - a bit of respect each way goes a long way. There are a lot of coppers into their cars just like us.

Shane , I hope you are going to be at our inaugural (spelsy) SAUNT formation meeting in Feb sometime.

See you in March Dan, it will be coming up to cruise time then too!

CU all,

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1128050
Share on other sites

I had 2 postings to the NT with the green machine. Right back at the start of the buildup of our presence there and I found the NT police to be the best around. We did a bit with the SOG and it was heaps of fun sharing toys and obstacle courses. Good to see that it probably hasn't changed. Cheers Shane :( Is big Jim Met**** still with the Coroners office? He was a good mate and lived just a few houses from me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1128359
Share on other sites

We did a bit with the SOG and it was heaps of fun sharing toys and obstacle courses. .

Geez, sharing toys is something I would be keeping quiet. Dont ask me if I want to go camping either. :wassup:

Were you up for the anti terrorism excercise???

I reckon the NT coppers are better than most you will find down south.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1128431
Share on other sites

No, I was lucky enough to get to live there, although I have done the drive up and back 7 times now over the years. The AT stuff was after my time.

I'm not sure what it would be like now with the concentration of military but I'd guess not as good as it was. Hopefully the local Police are still as friendly as ever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58667-road-worthy-etc/#findComment-1129212
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...