Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 Pros: Newer (more reliable i guess), looks better (debatable), has VVT (Neo).

R34 Cons: Fewer spare parts around, insurance possible more expensive, more expensive to purchase.

R33 Pros: Same engine sans VVT, in my eyes just as sexy (series 2 is anyway... S1 lacks that aggressive styling), alot more spare parts than R34, tidy simple function interior...

R33 Cons: Older so more prone to reliability issues, alot of them around if you're after that individuality factor....

The bottom line is price. GT-Ts are probably closer to $30,000 while GTS-ts are sub $20,000.

I've got some more points to consider. As if the r33gtst is not heavy enough, the r34 is much heavier. Although the engine puts out more power, the r34 gtt would be less agile in handling due to the weight.

Also, in regards to looks, the look is very personal. Personally, I like slightly squarer cars. That's why I picked the skyline over the supra. But personally (I'm not knocking anyone elses car, i'm just saying for me) I prefer the slightly rounder shap[e of the 33 over the 34.

[quote=I've got some more points to consider. As if the r33gtst is not heavy enough, the r34 is much heavier. Although the engine puts out more power, the r34 gtt would be less agile in handling due to the weight.

The R34 is by far more agile than a R33. They have a far more agressive turn in and have the real feel of wanting to be thrown into every corner. The steering is much more responsive than a R33.

My two cents worth.

R34's were designed to be closer in concept to the R32. Smaller, sharper handling and more responsive (overall sportier) than the R33. You dont really notice the small increase in weight.

I went for R33 because its cheaper, can perform just as well as any R34 GT-t with a few mods and more room (esp headroom as I'm 6'4) inside.

Not as good a performer in stock form though.

PS R33 do have VVT, it just kicks in later on in the rev range relative to R34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...