Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

or you can remove the ps pump, and undo the 4 bolts on the back of it.

then you can remove the little vane pump thing, (it slides out) and close it all up again.

then just block the outlet hose on the pump.

That way, it wont continually pump oil around for no reason.

steve

Ben, as always I prefer email as it is easier to track orders than PM.

I intend to open a website soon with all of the orders starting to come in, and use PayPal, which reminds, I must make another donation to Christian.

PHATR32, I am talking about the power steering fluid cooler that runs from the HICAS control solenoid (near the oil filter). What do you think the impact on the fluid temperature will be once this is removed (keeping in mind that fluid will now not need to be pumped to the rear of the car) and what will be the impact on the system pressure now that all of the fluid is being pumped through the power steer - what happens when that valve shuts - will there be an increase in the pressure of the lines?

I have no idea what would happen if that part of the system is removed - I am a little aprehensive - but would LOVE to see it gone!

What makes you think that on a 32/silvia platform that anything other than plugging the hydraulics or a connector pipe is required? Sure removing the rest is nice, but not necessary. It is just a basic hydraulic system.

For 33 and 34 the system is electric so no pumps, or perhaps you haven't had the opportunity to work on these yet.

I have no problem with a mechanic with a new workshop trying to make a buck...hell I spent a lot of years working as a mechanic myself before getting an engineering degree, but I suggest you specify the service you are offering such as the exact work on the car, whether you will provide an alignment and whether any other parts have to be payed for.

BTW good luck with the workshop.

mate if you can fit them for $50 more fool you, as your time must be cheap because they are not fitted as quick and easy as u say , this is not a new work shop i have worked on a r34 gtr as i own one and i also have a r32gtr so sorry i dont need the extra money u talk about just thought i would give the guys a hand any way good luck trying to sell them

p.s sold my r33 gtr at the end of last year

So this item here you suggest takes 2 hours to remove and replace and conduct a rear toe adjustment (see pic)? I'll allow the forum members to determine for themselves the truth of that. As to my value, I'd suggest it is way beyond your comprehension, but I still only swing spanners for personal enjoyment and to help out mates.

This is a DIY thread where info is offered for members to do it themselves so they only then need the rear toe adjustment. Sure I sell the items, for which I have selected suitable materiel and welding methods to ensure they remain stronger than the factory component, but members are free to buy wherever they want to and these are available from a number of sources. I just offer them at a price to recover my costs and make a little as well, as they are a very basic component.

There is no need to introduce negative comments or attempt to impress us with the cars you own. A quick search of the forum revealed your history on here, including your new workshop thread here so I'd suggest it is still a new workshop and I still offer you my regards on making it successful. Just quietly, helpful comment will bring more customers to your door than just being negative without supporting evidence.

As far as this thread goes I recommend you either help with appropriate comment or refrain from attempting to directly insult me and my intelligence or indirectly insult the forum members by trying to offer a service that they may not want or need. If you feel there is error in the method then by all means take your pictures and post the detail, for the benefit of the members. In future if you are offering services then post in the appropriate section of the forum.

Hey guys - you are f**king up an otherwise good thread. Should you like to bicker about who knows what you might like to do it off line. This IS a DIY thread and I would suggest that most people visiting here are only interested in finding out how to replace the HICAS bar.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...