Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This afternoon I had a bit of a play with the brakes, to see how difficult it is going to be to change my single-pot "non-mspec" to "m-spec" 4 piston jobs, and also at the same time change over for the slotted rotors I have picked up.

Few things I discovered..

* "M spec" discs are much thicker than the non-mspec.. they won't fit at all with the single-pot calipers due to the width. Basically m-spec and non-mspec I believe are totally different discs... Unless the DBA ones I have are especially wide(??)

* The non-mspec and m-spec are same diameter discs.

* "M spec" and "non-M spec" pads are totally different. The single pots don't look too much different to the brakes on my R31.. maybe even the same.

* It appears as if the brackets for the "M-spec" are different to the non-mspec and means the calipers won't swap over due to the different bolt positioning.. interestingly actually the non-mspec is wider apart.. Looks like I am going to have to track down these brackets - and if they don't fit into the standard hub position don't know what I am going to do :-s

* The 4 pot R32 brakes are a curious one.. with pins and clip arrangement actually slipping through the pre-defined holes in the pads to hold them in place (to prevent slippage?). Very strange, never seen this before.. and in my old R33 I believe there wasn't this arragement at all.. the pads just sat in the caliper held firm in place, like any other car I have seen.

* Looks like the brake line bolt on the 4 calipers is the same as the single pot caliper. So the brake line at least shouldn't post a problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/
Share on other sites

p.s. looking at the conditon of the old you can probably see why I want to change them over..

Also.. my question from this thread is .. how do I remember the actual front hubs?

The rears generally you just slip off over the studs.. but the front ones is firmly be held in place.

In the last photo you can see the huge bolt (22mm?) off the back, which is covered by a dust bracket. Is this what I have to unbolt to get the old hub off? There is stuff all room to manuver there. So do I have to brace the front of the wheel, whilst using a socket wrench on it?

Or do you just bash the hub forward with a rubber mallet?? Unfortunately the damn bracket bolts are going to require a breaker bar or something :-s as they are budged tight. Nearly snapped my 3/8 socket wrench trying to get them off!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127251
Share on other sites

* It appears as if the brackets for the "M-spec" are different to the non-mspec and means the calipers won't swap over due to the different bolt positioning.. interestingly actually the non-mspec is wider apart.. Looks like I am going to have to track down these brackets - and if they don't fit into the standard hub position don't know what I am going to do :-s

Perhaps I misunderstand you, but try undoing the 2 large bolts you can see in the extreme RH photo of your pics. The old caliper bracket should come away and then with any luck the 4-pot caliper will bolt straight up using those bolts. You might have to trim the backing plate to clear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127253
Share on other sites

You could well be right as the bolt holes on the m-spec align exactly with those yellow marked bolts. Unfortunately as I couldn't actually get the bracket off, couldn't tell whether it would fit.

Thought if it did go in there.. may be a bit far back to actually sit on the disc?

Does anybody have any "mpsec" brake pictures for R32.. preferably from behind? Not sure whether the service manuals I have cover brakes :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127262
Share on other sites

You could well be right as the bolt holes on the m-spec align exactly with those yellow marked bolts. Unfortunately as I couldn't actually get the bracket off, couldn't tell whether it would fit.  

Thought if it did go in there.. may be a bit far back to actually sit on the disc?  

I think you'll find I'm right :P and once you get the old bracket off the new cals will bolt up np.

By 'front hubs' do you mean the discs themselves ??....or do you have a problem with the wheel bearings and the hubs need to come off ??

Anyway, to get the discs off you need to get that bracket off first, but the bolts can be a bugger if they haven't been undone in awhile (corrosion, etc). Once the bracket is off, the discs should also slip straight off. If they don't (again, corrosion,etc) you will see that the discs have a couple of drilled and tapped holes with no bolts. Just screw a spare bolt into each of these (either 6mm or 8mm, I can't remember) and tighten them up and the disc should pop off.

BTW, don't undo that large nut, it holds the stub axle in place.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127276
Share on other sites

Had another go today... Old disc just needed a bash with the hammer from behind to get it off. That is all I needed to get off.

Exaclty as you said SteveL.. you just remove the whole bracket for the single pot, and the 4 pot just bolts up exactly to that position. Have to bash the dust shield out the way, but that is nice and thin so not a drama

All was going great UNTIL the final step when all went pear :cheers: The calipers and discs were bolted in.. Unbolted the brake line from the back of the single pot.. brake fluid starts coming out which I knew would happen.. so I quickly do that and start bolting it into the new 4 pot caliper as quickly as possible as to not lose too much fluid.

Hang on a sec.. its not sealing properly and fluid is still coming out, even though it feels like its fully bolted in.. keep bolting giving it some strength.. **** !! stripped thread :);) Basically I've stripped the thread for the brake line *on the caliper* which is a bit of a disaster... the "eye bolt" or whatever is that secures the line to the caliper is that extra 10mm longer than the single-pot calipers, not allowing a full seal. Of course me being a dickhead just kept tighening it, not realising this until it had stripped the thread. Thought everything else was so similar that the bolt would be the same but obviously not.

I don't really know what to do now.. either that caliper is stuffed completely.. or I try and get a slightly larger eye bolt, somehow rethread the hole, and pray it can all work. Does anybody have any suggestions??

I'll have to go down to pirtek or somewhere like that and see whether they can find me the right sized eye bolt so it doesn't happen on the other side. Its the same diameter, just different length.

But i've still got one farked caliper that is going to need some clever ingenuity or its $150 or something down the drain ..agg!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127957
Share on other sites

I don't really know what to do now.. either that caliper is stuffed completely.. or I try and get a slightly larger eye bolt, somehow rethread the hole, and pray it can all work. Does anybody have any suggestions??

Sorry, I should have picked this up from your photos....the 4 spots don't use a bolt (banjo bolt in old terminology) but use a flare nut and a short length of pipe to connect to the flexible hose. You could possibly get away with shortening your existing bolts, but the surface of the caliper isn't machined to 'conform' with the sealing copper washers used for your old cals. Worth a try, but the other option is to get the m-spec brake hoses and fittings.

In terms of the stripped threads, it should be possible to use a thread repair kit to fix it (re-coil or heli-coil) and a brake specialist should be able to help. Thread is M10x1 from memory and shouldn't cost much, but whoever does it should make sure they don't allow swarf into the cal (strip it down for cleaning before or after would be best)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1127973
Share on other sites

I think rethreading it will be the go like SteveL says.. which I know nothing about. First of all it looks like I need to get the proper lines (error #1), as they're obviously different now somebody sent me some pix. So I am on the lookout for those.

I'll probably take it to a brake specialist to get them to rethread the caliper, but its not going to be until january now :( grunt..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1128172
Share on other sites

Hi Gordon,

Sorry to hear you have had a few drama's :P Should be able to get the caliper fixed and re-threaded, I'm sure your not the first person to do it.

Hows this, when I put my 33 brakes on, I couldn't bleed them properly, and after going through a litre of motul brake fluid, it still didn't feel 'right'. Went to a workshop, 'casue I thought I bleeding it in-correctly - turn out I put the calipers on the WRONG SIDE!! and the bleed nipple was at the bottom, air was being trapped up top and not being able to be bled out!!

I'm sure it will work out ok and be fixed no probs,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1129777
Share on other sites

Hi Gordon,

Sorry to hear you have had a few drama's :P Should be able to get the caliper fixed and re-threaded, I'm sure your not the first person to do it.

Hows this, when I put my 33 brakes on, I couldn't bleed them properly, and after going through a litre of motul brake fluid, it still didn't feel 'right'. Went to a workshop, 'casue I thought I bleeding it in-correctly - turn out I put the calipers on the WRONG SIDE!! and the bleed nipple was at the bottom, air was being trapped up top and not being able to be bled out!!

I'm sure it will work out ok and be fixed no probs,  

Chris

LOL. and you had the courage to let other people know.... I'm still grinning.

Merry Xmas brake guy

TT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1129877
Share on other sites

LOL...thats the whole point of the forum isnt it...you can learn plenty from reading about the mistakes others have made:) Things is many ppl are too prould to admit it, more credit to those that post/share the downsides of mods/ownership...me i wear my ineptitude like a girl guides...i mean scout badge:)

Predator, did you get the calipers rebuilt first?

I ask as i need to get new piston boot for my front right caliper. I had the bastard rebuilt about 18-24 months ago, but i suppose the high temps of the track knock these seals around a bit:(

Thought id give them a go myself this time, just need to get a price:) (To compare to Race Brakes)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1130277
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

r33 brakes will fit fine as long as you get the r33 discs..

dluded: sounds like u don't have mspec.. the single pots don't have a nissan on it like the others.. best way to see is just to pull the wheel off and have a look. first photo shows the rear of the single pot, as you can see its just one big cylinder there. It also has the bracket (2nd photo), and you will be able to see the actual brake pad if you directly face the disc.

Mspec will always have the nissan on them (far as i know). You can see in the 3rd photo i posted, the mspec caliper (painted in this case) just in the very corner of the shot.. its much larger, and has 2 pistons front, two pistons back.

brake fun resumes when i get back home ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1142358
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

well *finally* finished most of this off yesterday for both sides.. turned out that caliper, whilst the thread is slightly stripped, still takes the proper flare-nut off the proper Type-M lines ok, because i think it has thick thread. So didn't need to get that rethreaded - if it starts to leak I'll have to think about it I guess.

I did manage to snap the metal line (nut was seized shut, causing the line to twist) that goes to the master cylinder, so going to have to get that repaired before the job is completely done :( Nothing ever goes perfect when things are old and gummed up. Otherwise everything is in place, ready for it to be bled.

Basically once you have the proper "type m" brake lines, it's a fairly easy process. And that would go for R33, or maybe even GTR brakes.

I have nearly finished writing up a tutorial on how to do it, with photos and everything. If anybody needs a hand with the process, let me know and I'll try and help out..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58917-r32-brake-fun/#findComment-1162947
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for all the replies fellas. Gonna finish putting it back together and see how it handles the set up. If it starts pinging it’ll be parked.
    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
×
×
  • Create New...