Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

List as of Castrol oils as follows

Engine Castrol formula R 10/60

Gearbox Syntrans 75w/85

Transfer case Transmax Z

Front Diff Syntrax 75w/90

Rear diff SAF-XA 80W-140

4wd TRANSMAX Z

pwr steer TRANSMAX Z

Brake super response dot 4

Clutch super response dot 4

This is what i use in my own GTR and it gets a hard life and still lives

Theo

hi, I was told by Gavin that you can use dexron III for the attessa resovoir, I tried getting hold of this 'nissan special power steering fluid' from two nissan dealers in Brisbane and one of them used to sell the R32 GTRS and they didnt have a clue about the fluid.

Were you able to actually get some?

I have used the dexron III in my attessa and if anything the 4wd is coming on much quicker (also have new tyres which are a week old - which may be contributing, just getting grippy now).

P.S. Make sure the rear diff has Limited slip dif oil in it, from memory the castrol oil recomendation card in the shop is wrong. It should be LSX 90, i actually emailed them to find out, if you want to be sure email them to find specs.

above is in regard to an R32 GTS4

Stephen

coolant: Nulon. The green one. I think they just call it "nulon long-life". It's good sh1t and was recomended to me by the guy who built my calsonic twin core radiator. He said in his experience it is also not reactive with other coolants, which is important since you wont know what was in it.

mmmgtir: Thanks for the tip. I have also heard that Redline Water Wetter is good stuff too.

Parag0n: I am planning to get the radiator flushed and will dump all the water/coolant, and start again with new coolant and demineralised water :)

LW.

Ok, just looked through the service manual and it recommends the following for the diffs:

Front Final Drive (F160): GL-5 85W-90 (~1l)

Rear Final Drive (R200): GL-5 80W-90 (1.5l)

Rather irritating the front and rear have different requirements. 80W-90 seems to be easy enough to find; anyone know who makes an 85W-90 product?

Edit: Just thinking about it, the front is open and the rear is mechanical. So should the front oil just be a standard diff/gear oil, and the rear a special LSD oil (ie. additional friction additives)?

Lucien.

You can use LSD oil in the front as well .

I use premixed coolant saves the macking around to get the water .

Basicaly any brand as long as its minimum 33% , 50 % is better and it will last longer too .

You will need about 8 lts if you empty the heater as well as the block .

Okie Dokie. Having now changed the gearbox and transfer case oils I can say the following:

* My gearbox needed just over 4 litres of oil. If you plan to use Redline Lightweight Shockproof be aware that the large containers are 3.7l not 4l bottles. I bought an additional an additional small bottle (~0.9l) so I had some extra.

* My transfer case needed about 1.5 litres of oil. I used Castrol Transmax Z: I purchased two of the 1 litre bottles.

Interestingly the gearbox oil looked filthy while the transfer case oil looked almost new. Thankfully there were almost no shavings whatsoever on the welsh plug magnets for either :P

I am still entirely confused about what diff oil to go for. I double checked the Nissan workshop manual and it lists standard diff oil for the front and LSD oil for the rear. I can quite easily get 85W-140 and SAE90 LSD oils, but nowhere seems to stock anything close to 85W-90.

Finally, can someone explain the ATESSA actuator too me? Its different to the rear diff and transfer case, right? I might see if I can track down some of this "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" unless anyone can recommend something else (or counter the comment made by GTR V)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

  • 2 weeks later...

Slightly old post - but anyhow - I obtained some "Special Blend Matic-D" ATF from my local Nissan dealer (Moorabbin, VIC out on Napean Hwy). Number listed on front of the bottle is 10130-89901A if that helps at all.

Paul

Okie Dokie.  Having now changed the gearbox and transfer case oils I can say the following:

* My gearbox needed just over 4 litres of oil.  If you plan to use Redline Lightweight Shockproof be aware that the large containers are 3.7l not 4l bottles.  I bought an additional an additional small bottle (~0.9l) so I had some extra.

* My transfer case needed about 1.5 litres of oil.  I used Castrol Transmax Z: I purchased two of the 1 litre bottles.

Interestingly the gearbox oil looked filthy while the transfer case oil looked almost new.  Thankfully there were almost no shavings whatsoever on the welsh plug magnets for either :thumbsup:

I am still entirely confused about what diff oil to go for.  I double checked the Nissan workshop manual and it lists standard diff oil for the front and LSD oil for the rear.  I can quite easily get 85W-140 and SAE90 LSD oils, but nowhere seems to stock anything close to 85W-90.

Finally, can someone explain the ATESSA actuator too me? Its different to the rear diff and transfer case, right?  I might see if I can track down some of this "Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special" unless anyone can recommend something else (or counter the comment made by GTR V)?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Slightly old post - but anyhow - I obtained some "Special Blend Matic-D" ATF from my local Nissan dealer (Moorabbin, VIC out on Napean Hwy). Number listed on front of the bottle is 10130-89901A if that helps at all.

Paul

Thanks Paul: does it have any other marking on the packet/bottle?

LW.

I only have a 1 litre bottle (about $8) but I think they said they had a 4 or 5 litre available.

Black squarish bottle - white sticker usual red/blue stripes - says:

Nissan

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Special Blend

Matic-D

Part number on the invoice is the number in my last post. Bottle also mentions to use it as power steering fluid for R32 GTR.

They told me that this is the stuff to use for the HICAS reservoir.

Paul

Thanks Paul: does it have any other marking on the packet/bottle?

LW.

  • 1 year later...

Hi after reading this post im now a little confused, WTF ???

I have been running transmax z (ATF) in my front diff of my 33GTRVSPEC

I looked it up at auto Pro in Newcastle in one of there oil charts and transmax z was recomended for the 32GTR front diff.

I also spoke to Guys that tune my car and they also recomended transmax z and aparently they put it in all the GTR's ,,,

is anyone else running transmax z ( ATF ) in there front diff ?????

should i change it ASAP ???

Thanks

  • 3 years later...
The reason I posted it up the 2nd time is because you asked the question after I had already put the answer there the 1st time.

I am only tryimg to help you.

GTR V

I just recently brought 5 litres of nissan D matic fluid for my transfer case. It states on the back of the container that it is also used in the R32 gtr power sterring. It cost me $66.00 from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...