Jump to content
SAU Community

super autobacs / up garage - where are they?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I'm coming as of xmas day for 2 weeks, and have been looking for the addresses of any Super Autobacs or Up Garages in the Tokyo / Kawasaki areas...

however, as I don't read japanese, I can't seem to find addresses on their websites.

can anyone please tell me where there are at least one of each store around that area?

it is kind of urgent, as I leave tomorrow :rofl:

cheers in advance and have a great xmas / NY !!

Hey i might be in tokyo around that time as well, but I'm also new over here (on holidays)

use this site to translate japanese characters

http://www.ocn.ne.jp/translation/

enter the URL address then click the 2nd radio button from left then click the button to translate.

Goodluck... to us :rofl:

I went to up garage ( they are everywhere ) and autobacks when i was in Osaka a couple weeks ago .

Up garage are good and cheap for used parts but autobacks are very expensive , almost the same prices as in australia .

I would also suggest that you buy a map here in australia , very hard to find one there in english .

Where are the Up-garage`s and Autobacs in Osaka? Assessible by train? I`m staying in Shin-Osaka for a few days and am hoping to take a look in an Upgarage. Rezz, you in Osaka right??? any pointers as to where to go;) Cheers mate!

i've been to Super Autobacs in Tokyo Bay so far - Blitz is right - it is as expensive as in Australia... I've just been onle and checking out the prices as compared to Greeline or Nengun, and delivered to Australia Nengun / Greenline are cheaper... what's going on with that?!?! :confused:

  • 2 weeks later...

best bet is to hire a car with GPS navi and get the shops phone number and enter it into the onborad navi and it will guide you there.

Good luck on driving around though hehe.

I used to live in Japan so I was ok.

Addresses are non existent in Japan. The Japanese post office system is the 8th wonder of the world.

i've been to Super Autobacs in Tokyo Bay so far - Blitz is right - it is as expensive as in Australia... I've just been onle and checking out the prices as compared to Greeline or Nengun, and delivered to Australia Nengun / Greenline are cheaper... what's going on with that?!?! :confused:

Autobacs = Retail Japanese prices

Australian market = Retail prices plus freight and tax

Nengun & Greenline = Discount on japanese retail with little or no tax

There is a supplier in japan that used to send me products at 15-25% off Japanese retail or cataloque prices. Add freight and next to no tax on it and its 'maybe' worth your time. I say maybe because on items less than $2,000 the savings are minimal (ie $100-$200). So on electronic products for example, I would rather pay the extra $100-$150 without the hassles of customs or warranty issues.

best bet is to hire a car with GPS navi and get the shops phone number and enter it into the onborad navi and it will guide you there.

Good luck on driving around though hehe.

Yes was showned that in my friends car here. I need one for my car. That is simply amazing... wish they had one in English though. Justin, hook me up with a discount at autobacs!! :) hehe

Addresses are non existent in Japan.
How do you figure that? Because thy don't use street names??? I have an address:confused:

I think the Japanese system works ok considering the unbelieveable amount of urban development... no gun toting Postal workers here :)

Interesting Topic Raised here.. If prices are so expensive at super-autobacs/autobacs, then where is the place to go for 'cheaper' (ie. less than retail price) car parts?

And dont say Yahoo Auctions :cheers:

Actually i have a Yahoo Auctions account.. What other skills would i need to successfully buy from there?

The same sorts of places you'd go to in aus, the smaller (sometimes not "smaller" at all, just not a large chain) discount performance parts retailers.

Oh, and I've never had huge problems with japanese addresses either. While it would be nice if they had a consistant way of numbering the buildings on a block but for the structure of the roads/alleys/narrow bits between buildings the japanese system works better than the western system. Oh, and some friggin consistancy in the maps wouldn't hurt, how hard is it to put north at the top!

Interesting Topic Raised here.. If prices are so expensive at super-autobacs/autobacs, then where is the place to go for 'cheaper' (ie. less than retail price) car parts?  

And dont say Yahoo Auctions :D

Actually i have a Yahoo Auctions account.. What other skills would i need to successfully buy from there?

Do you have a Yahoo Auction account or Yahoo Auction Japan account? Because they dont let you access the japanese one with the other. Also unless you can communicate in japanese and write in japanese, its highly unlikely they will sell it to you even if you win the bid. Further more, if they think its all too difficult, they will give you a negative response and thats the over of that account.

Interesting Topic Raised here.. If prices are so expensive at super-autobacs/autobacs, then where is the place to go for 'cheaper' (ie. less than retail price) car parts?

Just go to SuperAutobacs when they have their sales on... I picked up an Apex aircleaner for 10% (turns out to be 5% actually because they add tax!) off retail.

Alternatively, Up Garage, Autobacs Seco-han Ichiba etc often sell new items that are a good 20 - 30% off retail... it could be anything though, theres no consistency.

If you walk into any autobacs and ask to see their catalogue, you will quickly realise that their prices are manufacturer rrp. It's not 'cheap' or 'expensive' - it's rrp! Regardless of this - they very often have some great prices with each 'campaign' (usually seasonal). Not so good for the tourist - but you may get lucky if what you are after = what they have on sale.

There are some better prices to be had via the bulk mail-order houses (who you will see advertised in every copy of option, etc). Crystal (in Chiba - takes a couple of hours to get there from central tokyo - via a train or two, a monorail, and feet) is a good example - usually a (somewhat) worthwhile reduction in price for many parts. If you are chasing a bargain you really have to do some research. In all honesty, places like nengun have some extremely competitive pricing - it would only be freight charges (on some items), or very specific items, that would warrant chasing parts in japan.

The new items you generally find in places like autobacs 2nd hand, upgarage, etc, tend to almost always be superceeded stock. Definitely some bargains to be had if you're not fussy.

2c

Finally, as a relatively long-term resident, I think navigating in japan is a bit of a nightmare - and I have a hell of a lot of respect for postal workers here. If someone had given me my address when I got here and said 'go find it' - I would be living in a rice paddy! It's not surprising that so many cars have navi, and that gps in phones is being seen as a natural evolution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...