Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm on Blackrock. lvl 45 Troll Mage. Gimme a buzz if u'r around my level and want to get a group happening. I have a zillion elite quests to get rid of.

my room mates a lvl 37 warlock i think

nicks "motaboy" on blackrock also

he'll quest with ya

  • Replies 416
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

when blackrock is down im gonna be on eonar as a NE druid...i think

i've been playing rogue so this change should be fun, but i dunno if i should be a priest...meh druid for now

add me to your guild :(

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

paladins cant use ranged weapons

shamans are the same sorta class with ranged weapons try 1 of those if you want

if any1 is thinking of buying this game ill sell my game with accounts

there's a lvl 40something mage, 20something druid, 20something shaman and a few others

i wouldnt have a clue alliance are fags :(

ps im an undead rogue lvl40 on blackrock ill link my char tonight

boo, horde are...dumb...i dunno :rant:

i am lvl41 on BR gonna do ZF with some lvl60 guildies to rush through the quests for that then do it constantly later on for cash :cheers: just like what i did for SM

my rogue is coming up nicely now. Imp Sap is great and i get so many extra convo points for trivial shit.

i will roll a mage later on so i can see how it is to be using mana

btw. my name on BR is Doxximar

My Bro bought this game and I love it but renting character spaces from him sucks so I will buy my own copy. I currently am playing in doomhammer which is pretty unpopulated. Would be great to have more than 2 characters.

My Bro bought this game and I love it but renting character spaces from him sucks so I will buy my own copy. I currently am playing in doomhammer which is pretty unpopulated. Would be great to have more than 2 characters.

dont buy another copy of the game.. just buy my account if you want(havnt played in months) and if you dont want to use my char's you can just start your own..

and sell all his existing gear for money!

what lvl is your character/s skyl9?

not 100% sure cos i havnt played for around 5months.. but my main was a lvl 40something gnome mage(43 sorta rings a bell), had a lvl 20something druid, 20something shaman on another server and a few other smaller 1's

it would be better off keeping the mage to make cash for what ever char your going to play as

is there a way to check what char's i have without paying for another month to get in?

blackrock owns

i have a a 60 rogue, a 30 druid a 15 warrior a 11 pali/priest/mage and hunter.

on other servers i have horde characters best is a 25 shaman.

u haven't played for 5 months so u have missed alot of the new content SKL9.

up to master sergent with minimal pvp solo ganking as a rogue is so much fun :cheers:

rogue is silvan if u need a run through an instance. good cash to be made in SM/RFD/Maruden and ZF.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...