Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, i have a basically stock R32 GTR..

full exhuast with front pipes..

impul modded stock ecu.. no idea to what extent..

aftermarket airfilters..

i have just purchased some R34 GTr N1 turbos..

My plans were to get a Boost Controller straight away... EVC 5 probably ?? good ??

and what do you think i should do next.. im on a limited budget but i want to get maximium performance and realiability for minimal cost..

thanks people..

these what i was thinking.. whats your thoughts wouldnt come at once but would they be wise??

HKS Cams 265 in and out ? sound right?

Power FC

Nismo AFMS ?? cost $$???

cam gears ??

Bosch 044??

Front Mount?? hopefully a trust one ??

injectors 600cc??

thanks heaps!

get those N1's on there make sure before you do that you can afford a set of nice aftermarket dump pipes and bolt them up at the same time as the turbo swap. Other then that I would be looking at installing a pfc and cam gears and looking for a good tuner .

Shouldn't have to worry to much about your afm's if you keep it under 300kw@wheels if you want to go close or more you will have to upgrade your fuel system as well .

i think it would be better to go for a AVCR with the POWER FC. with the afm's you could use 2x rb20 ones. you can use the standard cooler upto 300kw so i wouldn't worry about it for now. then i would go for fuel pump ( bosch, walbro or nismo, probably one of the other two to keep cost down) and injectors ( 600cc sounds good ). as GTRman1992 said an oil cooler would be a good investment if you intend on going to some track days. sounds like you going to have some fun on this project!!! :D i would ;)

great Question Kill HSV!!! yeah i was planning to do a compression test before the turbos go on if all good will put them on if not oh well.. will just have to rebuilt it i guess.. or save for one!! anyone else know much about the differences between avcr and Evc5 ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...