Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.. i recently bought a set of R33 calipers and rotors from a person on these forums.. but for somereason the calipers did not bolt up to the R32 suspension. The only reasonable conclusion i could come to is that the calipers were from an R32 (the look identical.. only difference is the numbers on them.

How do i tell the difference between the two?? will it help if i post a pic of the calipers.

EDIT*frontcaliper.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60565-r33-vs-r32-caliper-difference/
Share on other sites

hmm i am in the process of re-spraying my calipers and i am pretty sure my r33 ones dont look like that ??? i am in melbourne at the moment so if someone else doesnt answer for you i will double check tomorrow if mine are the same and get back to you. i could be wrong :D

Nick - why are you changing the brakes?? Do you own a non turbo??

Those calipers look like R32 GTST. But then again, R32 GTST and early R33 GTST shared those same finned calipers, where as the later models got the smooth calipers.

Thing is i bought these to put on my friend's R32 as an upgrade as the disks are larger... however these just dont bolt up. Is there any nuimbers or anything on it that tell me what they are?

When you say they don't bolt up do you mean that the caliper mounting holes don't line up with the holes on the suspension using the R33 disc ??

I understood that R32 GTSt and R33 GTSt used the same calipers, but the larger discs used by R33's would mean that the caliper mounting points on the suspension would have to be further outboard radially (assuming the mounts on the caliper are the same for each).

Just a thought...

I was using R33 disks and these calipers (which i was told were R33 when i bought them)... and the 2 bolts on the caliper were literally 5mm or so too far out. on my mates R32.. as if the disk was too large... and as they looked identical to his R32 calipers that's how i came to this assumption

I was using R33 disks and these calipers (which i was told were R33 when i bought them)... and the 2 bolts on the caliper were literally 5mm or so too far out. on my mates R32.. as if the disk was too large... and as they looked identical to his R32 calipers that's how i came to this assumption

Thats because they are R32 calipers with R33 discs... You are right. The R32 ones have those mounts which lock through the pads to the caliper and keep them in place - R33 doesn't have those.

Match whatever calipers to whatever discs you are using and you should be right, and I think that applies to R32, R33, even GTR gear.

I wouldn't stress, get R32 discs.. there will be not much between them - unless its for the track. The main difference is the larger surface area of a larger disc = better heat dissipation and a bit better stopping power. They are still both 4 pot

Just sell the R32 calipers and buy some R33 ones, they go for the same money as they are the same 4 piston calipers with the same diam pistons, just different offsets to allow for different diam rotors. Sure to be plenty of S13 owners who will be happy with the smaller R32 rotors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...