Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.. i recently bought a set of R33 calipers and rotors from a person on these forums.. but for somereason the calipers did not bolt up to the R32 suspension. The only reasonable conclusion i could come to is that the calipers were from an R32 (the look identical.. only difference is the numbers on them.

How do i tell the difference between the two?? will it help if i post a pic of the calipers.

EDIT*frontcaliper.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60565-r33-vs-r32-caliper-difference/
Share on other sites

hmm i am in the process of re-spraying my calipers and i am pretty sure my r33 ones dont look like that ??? i am in melbourne at the moment so if someone else doesnt answer for you i will double check tomorrow if mine are the same and get back to you. i could be wrong :D

Nick - why are you changing the brakes?? Do you own a non turbo??

Those calipers look like R32 GTST. But then again, R32 GTST and early R33 GTST shared those same finned calipers, where as the later models got the smooth calipers.

Thing is i bought these to put on my friend's R32 as an upgrade as the disks are larger... however these just dont bolt up. Is there any nuimbers or anything on it that tell me what they are?

When you say they don't bolt up do you mean that the caliper mounting holes don't line up with the holes on the suspension using the R33 disc ??

I understood that R32 GTSt and R33 GTSt used the same calipers, but the larger discs used by R33's would mean that the caliper mounting points on the suspension would have to be further outboard radially (assuming the mounts on the caliper are the same for each).

Just a thought...

I was using R33 disks and these calipers (which i was told were R33 when i bought them)... and the 2 bolts on the caliper were literally 5mm or so too far out. on my mates R32.. as if the disk was too large... and as they looked identical to his R32 calipers that's how i came to this assumption

I was using R33 disks and these calipers (which i was told were R33 when i bought them)... and the 2 bolts on the caliper were literally 5mm or so too far out. on my mates R32.. as if the disk was too large... and as they looked identical to his R32 calipers that's how i came to this assumption

Thats because they are R32 calipers with R33 discs... You are right. The R32 ones have those mounts which lock through the pads to the caliper and keep them in place - R33 doesn't have those.

Match whatever calipers to whatever discs you are using and you should be right, and I think that applies to R32, R33, even GTR gear.

I wouldn't stress, get R32 discs.. there will be not much between them - unless its for the track. The main difference is the larger surface area of a larger disc = better heat dissipation and a bit better stopping power. They are still both 4 pot

Just sell the R32 calipers and buy some R33 ones, they go for the same money as they are the same 4 piston calipers with the same diam pistons, just different offsets to allow for different diam rotors. Sure to be plenty of S13 owners who will be happy with the smaller R32 rotors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...