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Cheers Bobby...  The MV kit is a replacement valve body as opposed to a separator plate...  I wonder what the pros and cons are...  :confused:

I'm with strutto, I'd like to know the difference between the two of them.

Either way, I'm 100% in for the group buy once the decision is made on what to get.

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Well what we're talking about here from MV is what Zoom magazine put in their 33 4door RB26DETT Auto project '11s'

issue 82

MV Auto

"Its not so much the electronic bits in the gearbox control computer, but rather the hydraulic programming circuits that exist in the valve body. The small channels and restrictors in the valve body allow long, drawn out shift times and the sort of slurry full-throttle up-shifts that can make short work of internal clutch packs."

Zoom goes on to say that the gearbox now had alot more bite, and 1st-2nd gearchanges at full throttle is enough to spin the wheels (this in an rb25de) with 3-4th also alot stronger.

Standard stall converter for re401 is bout 1800rpm

Check the zoom mag article out if your really interested, it has 7-8 photos explaining the process.

I have the MV kit in my R31 skyline, it is excellent

the Trans came in series 3 R31's, r32,r33, silvia's and patrols,WRX's, Rigoli 8.9 wrx

has a modified RE jatco which is just starting to fail now at there power levels.

The silvia converter is the highest stall rating...around 3500rpm on a RB30

Mike does the converter and shift kit for around $900 fitted.

We are currently putting one in a Gemini with a Vl turbo engine,

Mike supplies a separate computer box to run the trans in other cars

He has put one behind a 600kw BA turbo falcon

This is the strongest Jatco out of all of them, and if in good condition

can handle 10 sec passes with standard clutches etc, unlike the

Vl style ones which he only rates to 280rwkw and mid 11's in a full weight car.

And they are CHEAP, because no one knows!!, $100 secondhand

My car is presently receiving a built RB30,3540 etc 20+psi of boost, so will see

how it ultimately holds up in the next 6 mnths. Mike it a top bloke

Angela

The Stagea stall converter sits at 2,300 rpm with full foot brake, just spins the rear wheels a little bit as it gets to 0.3 bar. It jumps to 0.4 bar (max standard boost on the standard turbo) as soon as it moves off.

Put me down for an MV valve body upgrade if there is a group buy on them.:D

The Stagea stall converter sits at 2,300 rpm with full foot brake, just spins the rear wheels a little bit as it gets to 0.3 bar.  It jumps to 0.4 bar (max standard boost on the standard turbo) as soon as it moves off.

Put me down for an MV valve body upgrade if there is a group buy on them.:)

True that,

someone willing to organise the group buy?

ABO BOB: Mike told me Friday that the trans are the same. Yes the silvia

converter will give the highest stall out of all the stock converters, up to

3500rpm. Expect to pay around $400 for one. If you need a higher stall

you will, have to pay around $900. I have had 2 of these trans done now by

Mike, expect a month wait at least at the moment as he is flatout,

Anything more than a 2800 stall will make you car feel heaps laggy on the street

due to slippage.

I'm still wondering whats the diff between replacement valve body as opposed to a separator plate.

Pros & cons?

Does anyone know?

From my limited understanding of autos.....

A separator plate adds restrictions (smaller orifices) to the oil flow where needed. It can also manipulate flow directions. But it can't remove restrictions. If the gearbox only needs restrictions added (to get the right shift performance) then there is no difference between a plate and a full replacement valve body. But if it is necessary to remove some restrictions and rerouting isn't possible, then a valve body replacement is necessary. It is my understanding that to get the best out of the RE4 transmission, a replacement valve body is needed. A spacer plate does an OK job, just not as good.

My suggestion would be to ring MV and ask them exactly why their valve body is better than a plate.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

I spoke to Mike this afternoon, and got some more information for you.

His advice is that a separator plate will only do 1/4 of the job. The separator plate sits between the valve body halves. A shift plate wont control the shift overlap properly and the only way to improve lubrication as the revs rise is to modify the valve body (something about the factory valve-body restricts the lubrication high in the rev range, but the modified valve-body fixes this). Sorry my knowledge on the black art of Autos is a bit limited, so I hope this explanation Mike gave me satisfies your questions.

I asked about an option to include a new gasket and filter, which Mike said he would highly recommend we all do anyway, will cost about $33 for a "Service Kit"

MV can run the group buy for us but have asked that we do it in groups of 4 at a time. When the first 4 send back their valve bodies these will be modified and overhauled ready for the second group of 4.

Could those who want to take part in this Group buy please PM me to express your interest. Final price is still a little unsure, but the maximum price would be $335 +$50 deposit (refunded when you return your serviceable valve-body) + $33 for a service kit if required.

Apparently R34s use a different valve body but, but Mike can modify these if required.

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