Jump to content
SAU Community

Best dealers for skylines


Recommended Posts

since the thread is alive again

has anyone heard of "Power RD Car Sales" in dandenong??

they have some very well priced R33's and some with low km's etc. on them

there is one with 31,000km's on it *shock* i have never seen a skyline with that low km's

i was wondering if they are really dodgy or actually half-decent??

Thanks for the help ;)

  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I bought my 'line a couple of years ago from Best Choice Car Brokers on Williamstown Rd. Was 21k for a 94 R33 GTS25T, absolutely immaculate inside and outside. Only mod I could see was a cat back exhaust and tinted windows. Maybe a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for, and I have had no probs whatsoever since!

I would highly recommend buying a car through Mike there, he even bought the car down to Geelong twice for me.

Has anyone else bought a car from here?

nikr33

::Thats interesting as what was swaying me with them was the extended warranty on their cars. ::

Yeah they have an extended warranty i got suckered into buying it. was like $400 extra.

All i Know is after my first service with them a few parts had to be changed, would of though the warranty/good will would of covered that.

They also wanted to charge me to fix the rattle they created cause it was taking them so long to fix...

they also have a panel beater/workshop down the road :)

i know theres a place on sydney road in the campbellfield area called "just jap auto imports" or something like that, hes dodgy, and hes prices are bs, 20 gran for a near stock R32 gts-t..... pffft.

theres another place on bell st in preston ( i 4get the name ), i was told there dodgy as well by some people on here, they have some nice cars but.

i ended up gettin my '94 R33 gts-t from allblitz after goin to like 10 different import places.

::Thats interesting as what was swaying me with them was the extended warranty on their cars. ::

Yeah they have an extended warranty i got suckered into buying it. was like $400 extra.

All i Know is after my first service  with them a few parts had to be changed, would of though the warranty/good will would of covered that.

They also wanted to charge me to fix the rattle they created cause it was taking them so long to fix...

they also have a panel beater/workshop down the road :)

Worth noting, thanks for the info mate. B)

i know theres a place on sydney road in the campbellfield area called "just jap auto imports" or something like that, hes dodgy, and hes prices are bs, 20 gran for a near stock R32 gts-t..... pffft.

theres another place on bell st in preston ( i 4get the name ), i was told there dodgy as well by some people on here, they have some nice cars but.

i ended up gettin my '94 R33 gts-t from allblitz after goin to like 10 different import places.

hey

were are allblitz located?? ;)

do you recomend them as a good dealer?

thanks

hey

were are allblitz located??  ;)

do you recomend them as a good dealer?

thanks

I can recommend Allblitz for his help so far with me. He has section on the main page in the very last sectoin. It is a list of the traders. Best way to make contact is via PM. User name is: allblitz

Website: http://www.allblitz.com.au/

HTH

mate sei motors r the dodgiest bastards ever, he once offered me 4500 for my sr20s180 and it was rwally ncie for a trade in wif a r33.

he said the reason he offered me that low is couse the roof was black as the car was ferrari red wif black roof and really tinted windows looked hot as.

anyways if ur in the marcket of a r32 i am selling myne really cheep as i need to sell it asap.

pm me if intrested

cheers

yeah allblitz is good, i can vouch for them, husnu is the guy to talk to down here in melb. top bloke and helpful as well, doesnt mind going into details about the car and doesnt mind answering any questions about them either. there located in the trader section you can get a hold of them there.

yeah jsa thats the name of that place, a guy on here told a story awhile back about a freind of hes who bought a 180sx from them, the paintwork they did on it was f***** and the bodykit was held on by like 3 screws and he payed like 22 gran for it or something..... thats highway robbery.

mate sei motors r the dodgiest bastards ever, he once offered me 4500 for my sr20s180 and it was rwally ncie for a trade in wif a r33.

he said the reason he offered me that low is couse the roof was black as the car was ferrari red wif black roof and really tinted windows looked hot as.

lmao what a dodgy bastard, sif it'd be worth 4,500, ive never seen a 180sx get sold for that much, besides..... alot of 180's have black roofs.... thats not an excuse to rip you off by like 10 gran lol

"theres another place on bell st in preston ( i 4get the name ), i was told there dodgy as well by some people on here, they have some nice cars but".

"JSA; I have heard some bad things"

HA, HA, HA. I bought my car through Jsa. Yes I could probably add a few things to the list. Good or bad it doesn't matter. lol

Yeah they have got some real nice cars there.

But in the end, 10 people could buy from the same differant impoter and you'll never get 100% satisfaction.

Like it has been stressed on here many of times, do your home work, know exactly what you are buying, get it checked out and you shouldn't have a problem.

Too many people are out to make a quick buck, you can tell when people are pissing in your pocket. Just suss' them out.

In the end of the day if you get a honest car for the price you paid you did well. The thing is, thats not too hard to find. What I would recomend is find a importer that offers (and keeps to there word) good after sales care. That to me is the big differance, and im sure many would agree.

  • 2 months later...

WARNING!!!!!!!

DO NOT BUY FROM JSA (Japanese Sports Auto) in Preston

Dodgiest bastards around... i got burnt very badly from these guys, and heard of others who have also had similar problems.

If you do dare to buy, take a list and make them sign of parts that are meant to be on the car, they took mine to stock to get it complied and 'forgot' to put all the extra parts back on the car so when i got it... most of the 'good bits' were missing.

They also lied about the parts that were on the car...

YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED

I would suggest buying privately cos you'd be saving heaps. These caryard dealers are probably selling them skylines at $4K or $5k more than what they bought them for. And it's not like they do much work or whatever after they get the cars.

However Allblitz does have quite a number of skylines at really good prices if you're looking for a "dealer". As for J-spec u can also get a good deal but it might be a long wait.

im not having a go, but you're all writing about how car yards are dodgy because all their cars have resprays and kits etc...

then you all praise allblitz....ive seen about 5 or 6 of the cars for sale through allblitz on their site, and they usually have aftermarket kits, and colors like monaro yellow etc....

the point is people will always have an opinion on a place, and usually because thats the only place they dealt with.

Difference between us and others is that we show the customer pictures of the car before it was resprayed just to prove it wasnt a damaged car. We find the public like the 'show' cars more and they sell much quicker.

since the thread is alive again

has anyone heard of "Power RD Car Sales" in dandenong??

they have some very well priced R33's and some with low km's etc. on them

there is one with 31,000km's on it *shock* i have never seen a skyline with that low km's

i was wondering if they are really dodgy or actually half-decent??

Thanks for the help :P

If you want to buy a car there, make sure you have the money in hand before offering him a price as the owner there doesn't listen to you at all unless you show them the dough. Once he knows you don't have the money, he'll just head back into his office and laze around.

31,000kms on a 98 R33 MIGHT be believable, but 31k on a 96 skyline is BS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...