Jump to content
SAU Community

Best dealers for skylines


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 179
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 7 months later...

i bought my r34 25gt from there for 13,000, i checked everything and took it for a drive the only problem was the centre console's hinges were broken while everything else was perfect. ive had it for 2 weeks now and loving it ill definately go there again, he gets new cars in there all the time, turbo's and n/a's i'd recomend them to other people.

yea i got my car (r33gts-t 2) from power road and the guy there shane is pretty good on the whole.

very casual though dunno if thats a good thing when your putting down your hard earned (nearly let me walk out the day i picked it up without giving him his cheque :laugh: ) good thing is if your serious he will let you drive about every car in the lot without a worry duno maybe its an aussie thing just seems so not fussed with it all lol

when i was browsing around, he didnt approach me until he saw me with my dad. Let me test-drive r32's and was happy to take car to any mechanic for a pre-inspection.

Although one problem i had was he listed a car as 1993 when it was a October 1992. May not be a big deal but i wanted a genuine 1993 model.

when i was browsing around, he didnt approach me until he saw me with my dad. Let me test-drive r32's and was happy to take car to any mechanic for a pre-inspection.

I guess that's why he didn't talk to me, didn't take me seriously (I wasn't serious on buying any cars anyway :P ).

Just like Pablo101 Power Rd are the only dealer with r34's in my price range too. :thanks:

Went down there last week and a guy called Jeff was the first to approach me.

Unlike Shane, this guy knows exactly how to look after a customer!

In about 5 mins of looking at the only R34 25gt there he threw me the keys to let me have a drive (trusting an 18yr old with an R34 within 5 minutes in my opinion was somewhat of a miracle).

NO pressure at all to commit and he even bought my girlfriend and myself a powerade!

As far as i can tell their cars are pretty good (apparently all grade 4 auction ratings at least), although their yard isnt the most pleasing to the eye.

This thread is really coming along since its revival !

Keep the comments coming they're really helpful as i need all the info i can get before i buy my first car (and incidently first 'line :banana: )

hey guys, currently in the market for an series II r33. JSA is bad i was gona smash him... he was full of crap. I went to JAPCARs which is on the humeway they seemed to be ok,nice r32's and 33's but some of them had dints n repsrayed... anyway today i went to power road.. they had some nice skylines... im thinking of purchasing a s2 r33 2morow. I will tell u guys the outcome. Thanks so much for the information ;)

Geraus.

best place to buy skylines in my opinion is power rd car sales.

I had my R32 GTR imported by him. It was a grade 4 and was the best R32 GTR i could find anywhere.

they have a good selection and the prices are very competitive.

customer service is not the best but once they know you are serious, its all good

I paid 18k for my GTR

best place to buy skylines in my opinion is power rd car sales.

I had my R32 GTR imported by him. It was a grade 4 and was the best R32 GTR i could find anywhere.

they have a good selection and the prices are very competitive.

customer service is not the best but once they know you are serious, its all good

I paid 18k for my GTR

was it the burgandy one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...