Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

its pretty much hard to say really..esp. with import cars...for sure most import had the odometer clocked back...when i purchased my r33 it was fitted with a GTR dash with has 40K on it...but the original dash has 85K on it and the car was imported on 2002..i've put an extra 5K on it since i got it,.now lets say my car has done 100K ( originaly ) well.. i have to say..it still is running smoothly for a fairly moded one.

just really depends on how you drive it and look after it...crash it and go R.I.P.

i'd say 35cm for a piace of string.

My r32 gtst made it to about a genuine 180k (based on a service sticker i found having 60k more than the odometer when i bought the car). Swapped the engine out as it was getting tired and blowing a bit of oil into the intake.

The last 60k were done with better than 160rwkw and the last 20k with 175rwkw.

Stripped the motor today and found everything was in pretty good condition considering, with a fair bit of blowbye obvious on the sides of the pistons and a bit of excessive wear on a couple of the big end bearings and some minor scoring on one of the main bearings. Other than that the bores still had obvious hone marks and there were no busted ring lands, damaged rings or anything like that.

and a piece of string is definately 30cm

Not necessarily... The faster you go, the shorter the piece of string gets :D So someone driving a highly modded R34 GTR might observe the same piece of string o be shorter than someone driving a stock R33 GTS-t for example...

All the nerds out there will understand what I'm saying.

How long is a piece of string?

easy and indisputable.....

double the string's centre to one side!!!! :wassup:

except for G-strings, more complex geometrical math is required here. :Oops:

not a RB - but my 1979 Toyota Celice has done 790,000 km's - same engine :rant:

i just service it every 15k and it's fine :rant:

umm.....so you get my point then?

Those 2 litres appear unbreakable, but 'truck' like!! :wassup:

I killed my RB26 with 62000k's on the clock, my RB25DE had a 114 on the clock when it was layed to rest and still went like a dream, i got it with 50 000k's on it and cained it everywhere, lots of drag and track days and it did about 30 000k's with a 75hp shot of gas running though it, in the few months leading up to the engine conversion i was trying to kill it but couldnt, its gonna go in a project car next year.

my r32 gtr has around 240,000kms on the motor, it's pretty stockish. It has had a modest power increase over factory however the improvements I have had done aim at reducing the revs and boost required to make the same power as factory. This still means my engine will now not last as long as if I had left it alone under the same servicing regime.

Basically the more power you have and use regularly the quicker you will need at least a bearing / compression ring etc. rebuild.

The concept that a worked engine (say race spec) is going to last as long as a stock engine with the power being utilised is for dreamers with no money. If you have no money then drugs, gambling and performance vehilces are a sure way to increase your risk of spiraling debt and depression. Have a nice day.

The RB series has been proven to bea very strong motor...

Its the heart of all skylines right back from the 31....

It has proven itself on the track/drags/rally and street use....

The life span is very hard to determine. As left standard and driven every day for an hour a day it should last longer than the panels (rust will take over before engine dies)... If boosted or NOS'ed, Drifted and draged every where then it aint gonna last that long....

Would you say a Big Block Chev is strong.... I would....

Then how come Top fuel dragsters re-build after every run.... Its cause their pushed....

That same motor reving at 2000rpm all day everyday would run for ever.....

It comes down to the build quality and treatment.... My 2c

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...