Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 376
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll take one if you can do it for $150 posted to Melbourne :P

I just checked postage to Melbourne is $16 , i have to register and insure it , so all up would be $156 delivered to your local p.o.

Let me know if you are interested .

o.k. cool , i dont know your setup so you may have to work out some mods to fit it . I know it fits perfect in the r33 spot all you need is a bigger top bracket ( to fit in the 33 spot ) .

Do you have dimensions of the 1200CCA battery?

I need one for a Nissan Exa, just want to make sure it will fit

Cheers

Greg

I didn't say they are 1200 cca , what i said is that they are a copy of the odyssey 1200. they are not 1200 cca they are 1200 ca . They are probably around the 600 cca and about 40 amphour . I believe they are a very good battery , i have one in my r33 gtr and i'll buy one for my 34 when it comes here from japan .

Some forum members have these batteries in their cars , if anyone is not happy with theirs please say so .

The dimentions are : 197x165x170 high al in mm , same size as the odyssey 1200 minus the metal case .

How do they compare performance-wise to the Odyssey? Who makes these? I have a couple of people who are also interested but need more info. Can you provide definite specs?

Charlie.

They are made in China and they are copies of the odyssey 1200 minus the metal case .

I had 1 in my car for about 1 year and its fine .

I have 2 small ones in my jetskis , had them for 3 years now and they perform fine . The original jetski batteries only lasted 2 years .

What about warranty? Will there be a receipt issued? What do they retail for? Brand name?

Sorry for the questions, but the other buyers would like this info.

Also, how soon can we get them?

Also, what are those two rectangular caps for if they are totally sealed units? I have 3 others interested in these.

Thanks,

Charlie.

They are totally sealed and they say so on the case , i cant take a pic of the side of the battery . Its in the boot of my gtr and you have to remove the steel backing to get to it .

Those caps you cant remove , i guess thats were they seal them , not sure but i know you cant remove them .

What about warranty? Will there be a receipt issued? What do they retail for? Brand name?

Sorry for the questions, but the other buyers would like this info.

Also, how soon can we get them?

I cant offer you warranty at that price sorry , yes a receipt will be issued from the supplier ( not from me ) , they don't retail as far as i know .

Its made in China thats all i know dont know brand name.

I'll let you guys know as soon as i get the numbers .

nxtime as you are in sydney you can pick up and pay at the same time if you like .

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...