Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've heard that checking to see whether the timing belt has been servied at 100k is a decent measure to see whether an import has been wound back.. Usually they'll dial the km back but luck out on the notification sticker for that? is this right?

Where abouts can you find when/if it has been done?

thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

im sure ur mechanic or whoever can change them can give u a good idea on how many km's it has really done as to the state of the timing belt

its its pretty gone well usually its done over 100,000

but im sure he can give u a better decription and what he thinks it really is

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-130167
Share on other sites

on the cam cover ussually you can see a silver sticker with numbers on it writen in pen that has faded off or rubbed off are ussually the klm it has been replaced

you can see pen indent if you look hard enough

this is just a guide and i make no guarentee this is true just my opinion

hope this helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-131254
Share on other sites

duz a r32 with rb20 hav a timing belt or chain??? question mite sound silly but my previous s13 silvia with a sr20 had a chain which surprised me coz i always thought it had a belt.

If the rb20 duz hav a chain then i was under the impression that aslong as the engines in good condition and regular servicing then it didn't need changing....Any thoughts on this.....

jay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-133970
Share on other sites

which also means, if you have bought an import up to 10yrs old

and the clock "says" 40-60k (as most do by the time they get here) change the timing belt asap to be safe... its really not that expensive. changing it when your clock "says" 100k might actually be 130k or even lots more and that to me is a fair risk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-135305
Share on other sites

[qote]If theres a silver sticker on the cam cover saying jap talk followed by 100 000km's, its been changed. As far as I know.

So just that mean it has been done at 100,000km or should be done at 100,000km??? Mine has the sticker and the odometer reads 76,000. No evidence of hand writing on it though. I'm confused now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-135508
Share on other sites

Guest nismogtsx

Winding back the km's is a big problem with imports....

Remember if the kms are really low and the car does not have a hugh price then their hiding something...

OK.... do some research on other import yards to find the common price and km's in ya area then go for the once that fits ya budget and looks the best (in condition i mean not with T66's and shit)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6268-timing-belt-check/#findComment-136931
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...