Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day all,

Just did a gearbox oil change on my R33 GTS-t and I thought I'd share it with everyone.

My box was crunching into second gear for the first 4-5 changes first thing in the morning (it get really cold here), so I thought that the synco's in second were stuffed. As well as that there was a whining coming from the gearbox for the first 2-3 minutes of driving in the morning.

I changed the oil and what a difference !!!!!!

Cold gear changes are sweet now, and no whine for the first few minutes of driving.

I used Castrol VMX80 gearbox oil, the difference is great, smoother gear changes, and when normal (warm) driving the car seems quieter than before, even though I didn't think it was noisey before.

To do it is easy.

Do the following after a drive so the oil is hot (and will flow out better).

Use a trolley jack and jack up the drivers side of the car.

Use axle stands under the chassey to make it safe.

You'll see the drain plug on the gear box about 1/4 way from the back of the box. A 1/2 inch rachet fit's nicely into it. You'll also see the fill plug on the drivers side and it's the same size as the drain plug.

Make sure you loosen the fill plug before you drain the oil. You don't want to find out that you can't get the fill plug out after you've drained all your oil!!!!

Drain the oil. Put the drain plug back in and then remove the fill plug. I used a pump to get the oil into the fill plug as it's a tight fit.

The gearbox took close to 4lt of oil. Basically you fill the gearbox until oil comes out the fill hole. Make sure you have the car as close to level when you fill it. I know it hard if you have to jack one side of the car up.

Put the fill plug back in. Lower the car, and that's it.

Easy, and has fixed all my worries.

BTW: the VMX80 was about $29, and the little oil pump thing was $12.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest MrLolly

hey jay, i recently did mine and my 93 model 33 has its fill plug on the passenger side

also, no need to buy a special oil pump, just get one of those little plastic pumps that are used for getting fuel out of a can and into the car, cost $6, all you need to do is shorten the collector hose so that it fits into your four litre bottle

rod

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-16654
Share on other sites

Hiya Guys....

I basically have the same problem as Jay95R33 ... that is for the first couple of changes after you start the car going from first into second .... second gear grinds.... then it stops after a couple of gos....

So my question is ( and feel free to make fun of me :P as I have only had my 95 R33 GTST about two weeks ) Does the skyline have a dipstick for the gearbox ( manual ) ???? I had a look but couldnt find one??? Or is it self contained or something??? Do I just go straight for the dumping of the oil????

Help! :confused:

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-17082
Share on other sites

G'day Brett,

Naaa, there isn't a dip stick for the manual box. It's a sealed unit (except for a small breather I think), so your only option is to drain the oil and put fresh stuff in.

You can top it up, but it's best to drain the old.

It really is straight forward. The hardest part was jacking up the car, and then pumping that little pump thing about a zillion times to get the 4 litres in her.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-17086
Share on other sites

Thanks for that....

Another question.... where is the jack spot for the R33??? I ask because with all my bodykits I dont want to put pressure on something I shouldnt.... ( I had a commodore before and it was dead easy :P )..... I should also go back to the import dealer and ask for a jack as I dont think I got one with the car...

P. S All you Perth guys should put out a message when you organise another cruise .... I would love to be part of a HUGE skyline cruise.... that would be fun .... and a great chance to learn some stuff :)

Thanks Again

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-17091
Share on other sites

Cool,

You should be able to use the normal jack spots that are near the sil, your side skirt should stop a little bit before it so you can get your jack in there without causing damage.

Once up, put your axle stands under the chassic rails.

Yeah, go back and get a jack from your dealer, other than being stuck somewhere with a flat and no jack, I think you have to carry a jack by law (stupid hay), but if you get a cop that's had a really bad day he could get you for it.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-17125
Share on other sites

yeah same with mine when its cold it wont go into 2nd or back to 1st or grinds... unless i pump the clutch in neutral a couple of times... could need oil change i guess? Also this could be unrelated but if i start the car up and its really cold, and reverse, once the clutch starts grabbing sometimes it will squeal very loudly, sounds like its slipping... doesnt happen once its warmed up, anyone know what this could be?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-19055
Share on other sites

Hmmm, the squeeling - does it sound like a bearing squeeling? It could be your thrust bearing on the way out. Not sure.

As for the 1-2 crunching, yepp, that's what mine was doing and the oil change made it all sweet. It was getting bad enough for me to forget about 1st gear for the first few take off's (use second), but after the oil change it goes between first and second like a dream now.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-19194
Share on other sites

Originally posted by MrLolly

also, no need to buy a special oil pump, just get one of those little plastic pumps that are used for getting fuel out of a can and into the car, cost $6, all you need to do is shorten the collector hose so that it fits into your four litre bottle

ohhh if i only knew that when i had to change the diff+gbox oil on my escort.. i was under the car with a 250ml sunscreen bottle squirting it in..

thankgod i have patience

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-19196
Share on other sites

Originally posted by thejackal

how often should you change your gearbox oil?

Originally posted by skyzerr33

every 80,000 to 100,000 km's

So if within 11 thousand K's mines done this, is it because

I've been driving it way too hard? :) :burnout:

or was it just crap oil they put in when it was complied? :confused:

(my car has only done 50 thou)

Or is my box on it's way out? :bonk:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-19229
Share on other sites

They all seem to do it (crunch that is).

I've changed my oil a few times since I bought it 2 years ago... I use the VMX80 stuff in my car too... Works a treat!

As Jay said, the hardest part is pumping the oil into your gearbox... Man your arm gets tired! :P

A lot of compliance places don't even change the gearbox/diff/brake fluids anyways, just to save a bit of cash... I know the place I took mine didn't. You'll be surprised how much of a difference an gearbox oil change can make!

matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-20512
Share on other sites

With the VMX80 bottles snout i found that a length of garden black hose fits perfectly.

I then held the bottle upside down with the hose attached near the bellhousing and it was pretty easy to fill up.

Well it was easy as I had a Pit to do it in so it may be a little harder laying under the car but still easier than a sunscreen bottle.. heheh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-20714
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

jayson i had the redline shockproof in mine $25 a L mind u

and now i have the same stuff u have, and mine crunches slightly into 2nd when cold

the redline stuff was great... next time in gonna buy some again

also when i refilled it i poured it through where the gear lever goes... didnt seem to do anything wrong that way... makes life easier i fink

anyone got any probs wif the way i did it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-397056
Share on other sites

You will be suprised how much smoother Nulon G70 gear treatment makes the gearbox with a couple litres of VMX80.

Since I had a VL Commodore that are renowned for diff whines i've used G70. The diff would whine like fark so I slapped a tube of this stuff in and a few hundred km's later the whine was so quiet you had to have the radio off, windows closed and silence to hear the whine.

My old VS V8 5 Speed manual used to crunch a little when cold. I slapped G70 in there and the crunching when cold dissapeared.

Same with the Skyline Box.. grabby feeling when cold is now gone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/631-gearbox-oil-change/#findComment-397170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...