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Gearbox Oil Change


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changed my gearbox oil today, had real trouble getting the feed bolt out, finnally got it out wit a breaker bar.. the bottom bolt had a fair few metal shavings on the magnet, cleaned it up nicely, doesnt look like any previous owner has ever changed it, put VMX80 in and running it in now..

only 2L of oil came out of my gearbox, is this normal? as ive read up here that there is supposed to be about 3.8 to 4L?

Edited by MKDR33
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heslo if u havnt got a breaker bar, try wrapping an extension power cable around ur ratchet, put it in position and lock it in and have someone pull onto it from the front of the car while you push from underneath, it worked for my mate..

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Thanks for the ideas guys but I just finished doing it through the shifter. My god does the Redline Shockproof make a difference!!! It's really great stuff and I highly recommend using it

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i have some stuff from repco in my box (85w/140) in my gearbox

its awesome shit, thick as and not too bad when its cold

just did my mates car also yesterday wtih the same shit, its good

both rb30e gearboxes behind rb30e's

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  • 2 months later...

ok after a few crunches I decided it was time for a gb oil change. Not sure which one to use but after read a few posts it came down to the Castol SynTrans and Redline MT90 - Mt90 as numerous people have had issues in the longer term with the shockproof. Cos I was just going down to Bursons who stock both i found that the Syntrans was $29 per 1lt bottle and the redline was $34 per gallon (0.946l) or $123 for the 4Gl (3.78l) bottle. I wanted 5L cos I wanted some left over for top up later and anyone who has used reldine know you will have some left over...cos of the bottle sizes.

As I use the Redline motor oils in both my R33 (10W40) and my FTO (10W30) I went with the MT90 which cost $149 all up from Bursons with no special discounts etc for 5GL.

I ended up putting in around 4.0 ltres after a good drain. Ran it up and its seemed ok - time will tell.

As for the drain plugs etc...bit hard..the fill plug needed my extendable 1/2" drive rachet which I use for my wheel nuts...came off a treat when extended like 1m. :laugh:

Filled using a pump i bought ages ago for this task...cos $12 I think.

All up for $150...high grade oil in the box now I can slam though the gears and get the most out of my 300kw.

THanks for all the info. never pay some1 do do this job for you!

mind u I have a pit in my garage...makes every quite easy.

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  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Putting the Redline stuff in is fine guys but just remember that it is only masking the fact that your gearbox is probably worn and will continue to getr worse... Start saving those pennys!!! I just rebuilt my box (R33 RB25DET - 1993) and it cost me a bit.... If you have a series 2, it's not too bad but there are some parts, ie. sliding hubs, they don't make anymore for series 1 and there are heaps of other major parts that need to be replaced when you put in the series 2 syncro...

Anyway, that's my 2 cents....

jayson i had the redline shockproof in mine $25 a L mind u

and now i have the same stuff u have, and mine crunches slightly into 2nd when cold

the redline stuff was great... next time in gonna buy some again

also when i refilled it i poured it through where the gear lever goes... didnt seem to do anything wrong that way... makes life easier i fink

anyone got any probs wif the way i did it?

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  • 11 months later...

ARGHHH i couldnt get the dam filler or drain plug loose, its like a bolt with a sqaure socket, there lso tight and i think glued in aswell, my 2,500kg jack is broken atm too so i had to use the wheel changing jack and then use clamp stands, not enough room to get in, looks like im gonna have to take it into the mechanics to get the dam bolts loose, or just dig a pit in my back yard lol.

anyone from sa who could get my plugs undone? ill pay with a slab of beer :P

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

hi all I have a 33 gts-t with 86000 on the clock and would like to change the gearbox oil not because there is anything wrong but because I like to change all the oils when I get a new car.

I was going to get the synthetic nulon 75w85 ($29.99 per liter) but everyone here recommends vmx80 which is much cheaper. castrol recommend vmx-m 75w85... someone said nissan run vmx80- from the factory is this true? i dont want to run a mineral if there is syn in there already thats all.

also the castrol website says 2.8 liters... is this wrong is it infact 3.8 - 4? can you overfill it?

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  • 2 months later...

It's only going to come out of one hole and the other one is a filler...you can't drain from the wrong hole :)

When filling up, fill through the filler hole until it starts to pour out of the filler hole.

Easy!

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