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Originally posted by KamikazeR33

jayson i had the redline shockproof in mine $25 a L mind u

and now i have the same stuff u have, and mine crunches slightly into 2nd when cold

Ahhh, cool. It's only for the first 5 mins of driving that it crunches into 2nd, and if I double clutch it it's fine.

Joel - Cool, I might give that stuff a try.

Cheers

Jayson

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I had a similar problem in my Skyline - a hot-cold gear crunching problem, except that my clutch dropped right to the floor (no friction point) when it was cold and was close to impossible to get into gear.

The problem is because the existing gearbox oil was far too viscous (i.e. thick) for my brass button clutch, and basically when it was cold it got thicker and thicker and theres no room inside the gearbox for the clutch and the gears to engage.

Mechanic just switched gearbox oil to an automatic gearbox oil, because they're much less viscous, so that when they're cold there's room for everyone in the gearbox, hence no crunching.

Yes but auto trans fluid will destroy your box over time. It doesnt contain the extreme pressure additives that gear oil does.. So your gears will start pitting and ur syncros will get knackered sooner or later!! You should try VMX80 instead. Its pretty thin!! I would only use ATF if the box required it..

Btw I tried Nulon G70 in my box. Hardly made a difference and ive done 2000ks on it since. I'll just leave it in there tho. May work for others!

Same Busky2k, I put a tube of Nulon in a few weeks ago and I haven't noticed a difference.

I was told to use Castrol Syntrax in my gearbox, but everyone else seems to use VMX80. Maybe I'll try it seeing as I've already bought it and see how it goes. The guy at Autobarn said it was better for gearboxes in high performance cars..but u never know whether to believe them or not!!! :P

Im using Lightweight Shockproof (Redline) oil. I've done about 600kays on it and it is starting to run really smooth, i really recommend it.

Also, i've said it before, if you can't get the filler bung undone, pull out the speedo sender relay about 10cms behind the filler bung and fill the gearbox from there.

PS Jay, done the diff yet?

Originally posted by Ronin 09

PS Jay, done the diff yet?

Oh crap, sorry Ronin - I forgot to post the results...

Yepp, did it last weekend. I had a good look at taking the diff cover plate off and dicided it was going to be a pain in the butt, so I didn't take it off :P

I managed to get the filler plug out without dropping the exhaust down... JUST.... My exhaust must be a bit different.

Drained the oil using the bottom plug and let it drain for about an hour, then got my finger in the hole (!) and scooped the rest out.

Filled it back up. All went well.

It seems like road noise is down a bit as it's not as noisey in the cabin as it was before. The LS90 oil and the additive I used did loosen the 2 way diff up a little, not a great deal, but I can feel the difference.

All in all I'm pretty happy with it.

J

  • 7 months later...

what was the additive you used in the diff Jay?

I got some of the Nulon G70 stuff and it says suitable for manual transmissions and diffs, including LSD's.

Did the Gearbox last week with Castrol VMX80, but still got the crunchies, so thinking of doing it again with the Nulon additive. A bit of a waste of oil/money, but at least I'll know it's had a good flush.

One thing I noticed with the VMX80 is that it got better the more you drove it. The improvement wasn't straight away that's for sure.

Let it go for 500km and see if it get's better.

The additive that I added to the diff was straight from Nissan. It's what they use in the new Patrol's to stop the diff chattering.

It made a little bit of difference to the 2 way, not a massive difference though...

Apparently the stuff is a friction modifier, so it allows the diff to slip a little more before it locks up.. Maybe...

J

what was the additive you used in the diff Jay?

I got some of the Nulon G70 stuff and it says suitable for manual transmissions and diffs, including LSD's.

Did the Gearbox last week with Castrol VMX80, but still got the crunchies, so thinking of doing it again with the Nulon additive.  A bit of a waste of oil/money, but at least I'll know it's had a good flush.

It's pretty much the same as the gearbox.

Drain the old oil by using the bottom drain plug. Then refill using the plug half way up the diff.

I'd say for normal driving about every 50,000km ???

I can't remember the type of oil I used in the diff...

J

  • 9 months later...

Hey all

I tried to change my Gearbox oil on the weekend (first time I've tried in this car) and I could not get the plugs out, either of them. A half inch ratchet does not really fit properly, it is too small. The main problem is the plugs are in there too tight and they have that red sealent on the threads by the looks of it.

Any advice, Please.

What tool should I be using? Any advice on how to get the overtight / glued in plugs out.

Don't want to have send it to a shop for such a basic job. Thanks.

  • 6 months later...

well, first of all, get a socket that will fit, and get under there, with a decent socket, and use the force pretty much.

That red stuff u can see is most likely locktite, and will make it rather hard to undo. but once it starts, u should have no problem. u can also try and squirt it with some wd40 or similar to loosen the parts up.

where did my post go?!? :(

ahh well here it goes again.

I had trouble removing my g/box drain plug with a 1meter extension bar. :(

The car was over the pit and it had all of my weight. The bar was bending.

It eventually came loose and sent me flying backwards and skinned my knuckles on the cement. :(

If the car was only jacked up I would not have been able to remove it.

I was the culprit who did the sucker up prior also. I only used the standard length of the ratchet to do it up.

The R32's don't require a socket, simply use the half inch drive as the plug is female.

  • 2 weeks later...

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