Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmm you sure it weights 2.5kg??? If so it must be made of carbon kevlar or some other exotic material?

I have 4.8kg chromemolly and the engine revs upto redline alot quicker and i dont see any negative effects with one

it was second hand sam from XTC picked it up for me out of a nismo clutch n poped it in... just waiting for my car!!!! he told me all about it i cant remember what it was but he researched it n new worth $900 n weighs 2.5kg unless my hears gone thats what he told me

Why do they make clutches pretty colours when they go INSIDE THE BOX!!!?!?!????!?!?!

So some crazy person will take the effort to make a see-thru housing with neon's that'll let you see the flywheel spin? LOL :)

it was second hand sam from XTC picked it up for me out of a nismo clutch n poped it in... just waiting for my car!!!! he told me all about it i cant remember what it was but he researched it n new worth $900 n weighs 2.5kg unless my hears gone thats what he told me

U must have heard 4.5kg.

What is it made of? coz $900 is not much if its some exotic material

  • 2 years later...

sorry to bump this up. after reading through the whole thread Im still not very clear on one thing: does it really gives you faster acceleration say for 0-400m drag racing? or does it just "feel" faster because it revs faster?

Ive got a single plate Jim Berry clutch to be installed next week, if light flywheel is as beneficial as most you say maybe i should get one whilst the gearbox is out?

is this a good flywheel to get?

"Exedy - Single Sports - Light Flywheel

Low mass is a good thing when it comes to high-performance flywheels, which is why the lightweight aluminum Exedy flywheel can help your sporty street ride or weekend racer develop more drive-wheel power. A flywheel is basically an energy storage device. When the factory designs your flywheel, they take smoothness and other drivability factors into account and end up creating a heavier-than-necessary flywheel.

An Exedy flywheel still gives you great drivability, but the Exedy flywheel is made of lighter materials that take less engine power to accelerate. Your engine doesn't make more power and torque, but more power and torque gets to the wheels because your Exedy flywheel isn't soaking up as much of it as your stock flywheel did. Make sense?

Each Exedy flywheel is custom-machined from proprietary alloy metals and specially tuned to the vehicle upon which it is intended to be mounted. That way, your Exedy flywheel always gives you smooth shifting, scintillating acceleration, and steady idling characteristics that you'll love if you're a performance-minded driver. More importantly, you get back a handful of horsepower with an Exedy flywheel, which is what your goal should be with every modification you make"

Nengun

So are you's saying, when you replace your clutch, you dont need to get a billet fly wheel machined?

also, can you get a lightened or billet fly wheel, lightened more? (if it can handle high power, and ur engine isnt taking a bit off could make it snappier and still safe?)

Just a quick question guys,

I'm getting a Daikin heavy duty clutch installed, and have the option to get a lightweight flywheel. I've heard that I will loose torque if I do. Is this true? Will I notice?

yes. and your gearbox will make awsome ratteling gear noises up to about 2k loaded up

Depends what you think loosing torque is.

I found the car felt as if it had more torque especially in first and second when accelerating. I.e it felt as if it accelerated faster.

Launching the car required more rev's as it would bog down easier.

I was able to feel road inclines much more.

Free reving the motor was felt more crisp

Rev/gear matching on corner entry was much easier

High rpm gearchanges seemed easier, appeared to reduce the occasional missed gears and crunches.

Overall.. I quite liked my lightened flywheel. I wouldn't be going too light though. 5-5.5kg's is what I would be happy with.

I can't say I noticed a rattle down low but I did notice an increase in a labouring type feel at real low rpm. With the stock flywheel on there was no labouring vibration type feel at all. Not that you should be selecting a high gear and going WOT at 1000rpm anyway. :P

for me (having driven a few cars with lightened flys) the biggest drawback is the greater rev drop between gearchanges. that is the main negative in my eyes. if you can live with that, go for it.

This is the only negative i noticed to when fitting and orc flyhweel, u just gotta change a little faster. takes u about 2 gear changes to get used to

:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...