Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Similiar to what happened to my sisters VL after the flush.

Only difference was before the flush it wasn't overheating, after it was. :cheers:

I pulled the radiator out and when reverse flushing with compressed air and water I had what felt like bark chip covering my hand. It was massive bits of scale that had blocked the core. :(

That may be the case. It might not be the head but how pissed would you be if you spent all that money doing all this other 5hit and then find out it was coz a fake mechanic couldn't do a simple test.

How does he know it's not. Has he got Xray vision or something. A dye test will pick up the smallest leak that won't even cause your car to overheat.

Well anyway, I'm done with the advise. If you choose to ignore it, that's your choice. Like I said before, it may not be the head. I hope it isn't. I hope it's something simple to fix because I have gone through all of it hundreds of times. I just believe that it is best to cover all bases so that you rule out all possibilities. To say that it is not a particular problem without performing the tests to prove it is just foolish. I really hope they do the right thing by you.

Well i like to say 3LIT3 FORS3 WAS right.... and i should of done he sed...!!

it was a blown head in my engine !!! ****en bullshit !!!!!!!!!

so now i got a quote from ADD racing to get it done for 1200

wat do u guys reckon of that price??? any places in brisbane that will do it cheaper ???

and what does it inovole wen changing a new head ?????? pullin the engine out ???

You would get change from $800 if you did it yourself. Plus without knowing the condition of the head it is impossible to give an accurate quote as if the head is bent it will cost $600 to get a full head service and straightened. Now I'm sure even if you got the $450 VRS set for free, you would still not get away with $800.

Worst case scenario is:

Full head service $600

VRS $450 (assuming you can buy the VRS seperate from the full kit which is $600)

Labour - 9 hrs - $500

Oil and filter change - $50

Coolant - $30

Timing Belt - $80

Plus you have to account for broken exhaust studs, hylomar spray and any vacuum lines or hose clamps that may break while doing the job.

Total worst case scenario is: $1730 approx

If you can get a second hand head that is already straight or the head you have is still straight, the price would then drop to $1250 plus the cost of the second hand head if so required.

If you do it yourself you would save the $500 labour so then it would drop to $750 for a straight head and $1230 for a bent one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...