Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah darkest legal... meh i still like it

thats what i thought, and thats why i'm getting my "legal" tint changed to 20% or so as i'm pretty disapointed with my current light tint :)

BTW: i actually got my first tint done when SAU had a group discount going 2 years ago :(

yeah, and they charge about $60 for removal of old tints - apparently its not just a case of peeling of the old ones :)

also people should know that 20% tint is $30 more.

Its still cheap compared with normal prices but i've decided to keep my old tint as i'm short on cash :)

Just so people know as I do not see it on this thread, 4 door cars do cost more.

Apparently for 4 door cars a price of $195 was agreed

Still cheap but posting so others know.

When i booked my cefiro in i said it was a 4 door, and the price was still $145 ????

No worries alan, your car looks great...

hmmm I've organised this group tint but my cars taking so long at the painters that I'm still a few weeks off getting it tinted, let alone registered arrghhh...

Cheers mate, was very impressed myself with the results also.

I am sure they would hold the offer for you as the organiser given the circumstances with your car being built.

How do I put a thumbnail image up like that as I tried to work that out earlier viewing the code. I made sense of it but is there a quicker way?

I know nothing about tinting, so here's a couple of questions:

What is the % of tinting of exactly? Is it what you can see from the inside of the car (when standing outside)... Does this mean that the lower the % the darker the tint?

I assume that there is a 'darkest legal tint' because people (police) might like to see inside the car... or is it that the darker the tint (from the outside) the harder it is to see out of the car from the inside?

cheers guys

:D

The % that is referred to is the amount of light let in i.e 35% So if the % is less, the tint is darker as it lets less light in. I have 20% on my back window.

I believe the darkest legal tint refers is so that visability out of the car is still good rather than looking into the car. With my tint, it is quite black from the outside, looking in but looking out when driving, there is barely a difference IMO.

When I got to the tint place, the guy already had a package he suggested which was the 35% windows and 20% rear which I think is being offered to all people. The 20% rear normally costs a bit more but they are doing it inclusive from what he said to me.

HTH and if anyone disagrees, please correct me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...