Jump to content
SAU Community

WRX Club - Rnd 2 - Phillip Island - March 12


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 290
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Would someone have a cheap and nasty bleed valve or something i can borrow? Still not able to get the boost controller sorted and PFC EBC hasnt arrived. Not really worth doing another track day without enough power to turn the rear tyres. Farkin Trust turbos, noone can get you genuine gaskets, ie not the shit that was put in there before that blows out as soon as you do some sustained high temp driving

I've been reading the sup reqs and it refers to showing proof of payment .. has anyone received anything to that end? does not look like my credit card has even been charged yet .. has anyones?

Roy I have 2 spare bleed valves (normal and a blue anodised thing) as I will be using the Autospeed one until Funky comes through with my digital order.

Turbs on, exhaust fitted (GTR 2.5" hks style front pipe bolts straight up :D), dumps and fronts in 'jamy wrap, just welding up the turbo feeds and will finish the IC piping and injectors tomorrow and I'm ready to crank. Dyno Weds arvo so fingers crossed.

I think Anthony need to clarify his mods :D.

I know he is running at least 16psi, with the hi-flow turbo, not sure if the std fuel system can support the power acheived at this boost level. I know he has std injectors running at their maximum duty cycle, not sure about his pump.

Just like dobbing in a mate :wassup:

Al - to cover your question RE: Ant and Standard Class. It was decided that 2 things could put you into Modified. 1 - Sticky tyres (So Aaron you in Modified AWD!) and 2- Turbo upgrades WITH approapriate fuel system modifications. So whilst Ant has high flowed his turbo - he is still (as far as I am aware from discussions with him) running the stock fuel system (fuel pump and injectors). So because he also runs normal tyres he is still in Standard Class. ECU's suspension, brakes etc were all free in Standard Class.

All i will say is that he (Anthony) was kicking my arse down the straight, but got blue flagged because i riped through him round the bends :D.

On my next track day, the straight issue will be taken care of ;), i have now got my injectors and fuel pressure regulator to support my hi-flow turbo. But i may go just that little bit slower coming out of those corners, maybe. :Oops:

hoi.

well spent the day running around town. went to race brakes and got some comp 2 for the rears. $165 with my non existant wrx club discount. ouch. hopefully friend will help me fit them tomorrow night, depending on weather.

hopefully getting the rubber replaced on friday. amazing the differences in prices, depending on who you call. staying away from the race rubber. tyres still above indicators, but they will need to be changed soon or later. spare rims amyone?

as for contingency, the guy i was ment to be staying wiht down in phillip island, was trying to weasle out of this weekend. i think he was offered some work or something. bec, any beds left? i dont think ill need it, just in case things fall apart.

last thing i wanted to ask is if anyone had some spare bonnet restraint cables?

what else have i forgotten?

pontiff: andrew posted a link earlier to the wrx site, which has all the names of people competing. also he said your likely to get billed after the event.

IF you aint going to get track style rubber, then worn tyres are better then new road rubber. New road rubber heats uop the tread blocks way too quick and you ned up throwing chunks of tread, makign short work of that new rubber:(

And as the tread blocks walk around a bit the car can feel as though it is tip toeing around through the corners, i find it just made the car feel loose. If your road rubber is above the indicators, then stick with them for the weekend. The time difference wont be huge, and after you have truly flogged them senseless replace them with some nice new road rubber.

And Geoff, let me know old son, ill throw those 4 round things off the WRX in my boot for you :rofl:

Mr Brisby - I have an EVC 3 sitting in my office doing nothing if you need it for the weekend.

Aaron - you are on the list so you don't need to worry. They haven't updated the list since Feb 25th however so I have just shot off a PM to the motorsport director to get an updated list so everyone that has entered can confirm their entries have been received.

Al.....No clarification req'd mate. Everything you wrote about my mods is correct :rofl:

When we were all sorting out how to class a car that can be infinitly modified and modified any which way, two mods stuck out as being performance jumps - stickies and fuel injectors. Basically all I have done is improve the std setup....still got the same size turbo etc etc just improved efficiency. To start making serious power (above 220rw or so) it is widely known that you have to increase injector size - hence this being one of the classifications. Again to seriously improve cornering speeds and traction, stickies are req'd. All you have to do is look at the times you were doing with your stickies at calder compared to mine....the stickies more than made up for your *cough**cough* lack of power :)

:)

Stickies are just awesome :headspin:

You better watch the straights next time buddy :innocent:

Al.....No clarification req'd mate.  Everything you wrote about my mods is correct :rofl:

When we were all sorting out how to class a car that can be infinitly modified and modified any which way, two mods stuck out as being performance jumps - stickies and fuel injectors.  Basically all I have done is improve the std setup....still got the same size turbo etc etc just improved efficiency.  To start making serious power (above 220rw or so) it is widely known that you have to increase injector size - hence this being one of the classifications.  Again to seriously improve cornering speeds and traction, stickies are req'd.  All you have to do is look at the times you were doing with your stickies at calder compared to mine....the stickies more than made up for your *cough**cough* lack of power :(

On my next track day, the straight issue will be taken care of :rofl:, i have now got my injectors and fuel pressure regulator to support my hi-flow turbo.  But i may go just that little bit slower coming out of those corners, maybe. :Oops:

Not really

IF you aint going to get track style rubber, then worn tyres are better then new road rubber. New road rubber heats uop the tread blocks way too quick and you ned up throwing chunks of tread, makign short work of that new rubber:(  

And as the tread blocks walk around a bit the car can feel as though it is tip toeing around through the corners, i find it just made the car feel loose.  If your road rubber is above the indicators, then stick with them for the weekend. The time difference wont be huge, and after you have truly flogged them senseless replace them with some nice new road rubber.

And Geoff, let me know old son, ill throw those 4 round things off the WRX in my boot for you :rofl:

I was more concerned about safety. ooh. Now im hesitating about what to do.

I tend to agree with Troy (Roy), use your current tyres for the track, then buy new ones after.

New tyres also have a silicone coating to look nice and shinny, this does wear off after a bit of use, but till then the grip can be unpredictable.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...