Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a stock pile in my garage that i need to sell to get my new project under way.

2 x RB25DET manual gearboxs, vgc $1100 ea

Trust TDO6 20G 8CM its about 2k old, its pretty much brand new $1500

R32 7 point rollcage vgc $650

Trust 46mm waste gate vgc $550

Trust T67 25G near new $1650

more parts will be added as i go through the container my car came in its full of bits and peices as well

byer pays postage

i have a stock pile in my garage that i need to sell to get my new project under way.

2 x RB25DET manual gearboxs, vgc $1100 ea

Trust TDO6 20G 8CM its about 2k old, its pretty much brand new $1500

R32 7 point rollcage vgc $650

Trust 46mm waste gate vgc $550

Trust T67 20G near new $1650

more parts will be added as i go through the container my car came in its full of bits and peices as well

byer pays postage

can i please have specs of the T67 20G please..

Wheel trims and housing sizes atleast.

Would you be interested in swapping the TD06-20G 8cm housing for a 10cm housing. The 10cm housing i have is a bit too big for an RB20, much better suited to an RB25. I imagine as the 8cm housing is recommended for an RB20, then the 8cm housing could be a bit too small for an RB25?!?!?!?!?

My 10cm housing has been ceramic coated and has a nipple for an exhaust temp gaige if you are interested... [email protected]

sorry cant swap, yes the 8cm rear is better for the rb20, the flanges are the td series 3 bolt.

no specs as yet will find out, the tdo6 is good for 450hp+ and the t67is good for 550hp+

Fair enough... do you mind if i mention to RB25 owners that im willing to swap my 10cm housing for the TDO6SH-20G? That way you can sell the turbo to an RB20 owner (8cm), or RB25 owner (10cm) I can delete this post if you like.

Note: My exhaust housing is also has the TD 3 bolt flange, compatible with the Trust stainless steel manifolds and used with the Trust Type R wastegates.

  • 2 weeks later...

not its not true that they are stolen parts as ive just brought parts over in a container with some other people, as if i could go and steal all these parts. as if its possible and all this is coming from an ex that couldnt even get a promotion at mcdonalds, LOOSER

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...