Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been keeping my eye on this event for a while now. Both the old boy and i r keen. not cheap though, $45 for 7 laps then $35 for the next 7. last time i was out there it was $25 for the 1st 7, $14 for the next and the 3rd was free.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-96329
Share on other sites

Less of the old boy stuff you young twirp, just remember..on the 30th Nov you'll be squirming around on your knees pleading to borrow a set of my good wheels and tyres.

Oh... by the way.......will you be driving the Skyline....or the Lanos??

PJKJ We will both be there it should be a good day. This will be the first time on the full circuit.

Considering all the claimed 200 to 300 rwkw Skylines that are floating around SE Queensland it surprises me that so few show up to these events.

Question.... Could a 200 to 300rwkw Skyline that never makes it to the dragstrip or racetrack be considered........Rice?? :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-96366
Share on other sites

51jay and Mick51

I will probably be there, but just to watch....I want to do more mods to my car b4 i go into events like that the car is fairly standard at this point :-(

... But my mate is entering his TT soarer.. I also wouldnt mind going to get an idea on what ways ppl have gone with modding there skylines..

Hope to catch you all out there

Cheers

Richmond

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-97219
Share on other sites

my car is basicly standard except fot the suspention but i guess that makes a huge difference on the race track.

the standard skyline suspention is still pretty good though, u should do a couple of laps PJKJ. How much can u know about ya car and your abilities as a driver untill you've race at full pace around a profestional race track?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-97579
Share on other sites

MRE Heh Dave, Gates open 7am racing starts 8.30am I want to be there at 7 we leave my place at 6am 6.15 latest. If you want to join us fine ,get here about 5,30 or so quick cup of tea final check of gear then off. We won't have a spare helmet and you may need leather gloves too. See you Sun .......well done on the low 14's :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-98925
Share on other sites

The event is being organised by a guy called Paul, he can be contacted on 3341 5636 after 7pm tonight. there is no pre booking required, u just turn up and race :burnout:

so far it looks like we'll have 4 SAU guys there which is awesome!:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-99224
Share on other sites

hmm, didn't need em last time but they didn't ask for em either. u can pick em up for bout $100 anyway, head to toe clothing is also requiered preferably wool or cotton. anything synthetic is just gonna melt onto u if something catches fire.:eek:

my intercooler is almost on and it looks like i'm going to have to fit a pod filter as my factory one won't fit anymore :D

hopefully i can dodge the cops long enough to get a cold box happening and seal the pod up.

thinking of putting in a 4 point harness aswell, my dad found a place thats selling em cheap along with bucket racing seats. the standard 3 point belt just dosn't hold u in the twisty bits and i really noticed it last time. hard to steer when ya using the steering wheel to keep ya in ya seat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6392-race-day/#findComment-99965
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...