Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Just a quick question or two... Can I fax off my import approval and the documents that go with it (ID, supplier invoice)

Also, the de-reg papers arn't available yet for my car. Geoff from PM told me to send off the application without the papers? Whats the past experiences with you guy's applications.. do they just call you up later and ask to fax them the de-reg papers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63964-import-approvalde-reg-papers/
Share on other sites

Hi  

Just a quick question or two... Can I fax off my import approval and the documents that go with it (ID, supplier invoice)

Also, the de-reg papers arn't available yet for my car. Geoff from PM told me to send off the application without the papers? Whats the past experiences with you guy's applications.. do they just call you up later and ask to fax them the de-reg papers?

Having just been through this process I can recommend that you get the de-reg papers before sending in your application. I have just spent the last month waiting on my Approval only to find out that DoTars wouldn't accept the FAST printout unless the provider stated that it was a true and certified copy. The supplier wouldn't sign it so I ended up with the de-reg papers that I was told I didn't need.

In short, get the papers. They should be available as soon as you purchase the vehicle.

I think what Geoff is suggesting is that you should lodge your application immediately, even if its somewhat incomplete. Once its lodged they will find it that much more difficult to deny you an import approval due to the new rules as its already "in the system" so to speak.

I would follow Geoff's advice, but fully expect to get a call from DOTARS asking where the deregistration papers are.

LW.

yeah I reckon you are better off filing it correctly the first time. There should be no problem in getting you the de-reg papers. I got mine very soon after I purchased my car. When I sent in my application all complete it was approved in about 5 days.

If you do send off the application and have left out info then dont expect a phone call.

You will recieve a letter in the mail which again delays the whole process.

I know because they couldnt read my photo ID details via the fax copy.

Instead of calling or email they wrote a generic letter.

Cheers

definantly suggest sending it by fax. Then ring up the office 10 minutes later, and get them to check to see if it's come through. They will then give you a reference number, so you can quote it the next time you call them.

Just call them a week later to check on progress (quoting number), makes sure things are ticking along ok, also makes sure the paperwork doesn't get lost.

my photo id didn't come through, and they sent me a fax, so i called them up and emailed a copy to them, import approval arrived 3 days later in the mail.

definantly suggest sending it by fax.  Then ring up the office 10 minutes later, and get them to check to see if it's come through.  They will then give you a reference number, so you can quote it the next time you call them.  

Just call them a week later to check on progress (quoting number), makes sure things are ticking along ok, also makes sure the paperwork doesn't get lost.

my photo id didn't come through, and they sent me a fax, so i called them up and emailed a copy to them, import approval arrived 3 days later in the mail.

Nice. Possibly could send off now and phone up when I get my de-reg papers, quote my ref. number and fax it through.?

maybe just give 'em a ring and ask them what to do.

I was told not to send my approval through till 01 November 04 (coz nov 1989 build), and i called htem up mid October to ask a question, and they just said "yeah send the approval through now, we're a bit behind, and that'll speed things up for you"

Nice. Possibly could send off now and phone up when I get my de-reg papers, quote my ref. number and fax it through.?

Dane Just send off the papers, without the de-registration papers.

I'm in the exact same boat as you. Bought my car from Geoff, Same supplier in Japan, Same Shipping and we will properly be using the same customs agent.

I rang my custom agent up, and he told me that the de-registration papers weren’t necessary, if the car is 15 years or older, and that he doesn’t mind the import approval going off without deregistration papers.

I just got my import approval in the post on Friday, took me three and a half WEEKS to get it since I lodge them. So you’re properly better off getting the papers off ASAP.

I have not even yet seen my deregistration papers from the supplier and I’ve paid it over 4 weeks ago. You could be up for a wait for them.

Just remember our boat leaves Japan late February and arrives early march, around the 14th, could even be sooner. It’s properly a very good idea for you to ring up the custom agent Geoff recommended, and get the info for yourself, as he will be the one doing all the work at the docks for you in getting your car cleared.

PM me the link to the car you have purchased :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

this is apparently my de-reg paper

i dont understand how it would have any meaning to dotars tho, as far as i can see there isnt even a date of first registration on here, unless its in japanese

copyofbnr320078027ui.jpg

(oh and if you can see the date on here please point it out )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...