Jump to content
SAU Community

Import Approval/de-reg papers

danozgriff
 Share

Recommended Posts

danozgriff Explorer

danozgriff

Posted
Posted

Hi

Just a quick question or two... Can I fax off my import approval and the documents that go with it (ID, supplier invoice)

Also, the de-reg papers arn't available yet for my car. Geoff from PM told me to send off the application without the papers? Whats the past experiences with you guy's applications.. do they just call you up later and ask to fax them the de-reg papers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63964-import-approvalde-reg-papers/
Share on other sites
jonn Proficient

jonn

Posted
Posted
Hi  

Just a quick question or two... Can I fax off my import approval and the documents that go with it (ID, supplier invoice)

Also, the de-reg papers arn't available yet for my car. Geoff from PM told me to send off the application without the papers? Whats the past experiences with you guy's applications.. do they just call you up later and ask to fax them the de-reg papers?

Having just been through this process I can recommend that you get the de-reg papers before sending in your application. I have just spent the last month waiting on my Approval only to find out that DoTars wouldn't accept the FAST printout unless the provider stated that it was a true and certified copy. The supplier wouldn't sign it so I ended up with the de-reg papers that I was told I didn't need.

In short, get the papers. They should be available as soon as you purchase the vehicle.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

I think what Geoff is suggesting is that you should lodge your application immediately, even if its somewhat incomplete. Once its lodged they will find it that much more difficult to deny you an import approval due to the new rules as its already "in the system" so to speak.

I would follow Geoff's advice, but fully expect to get a call from DOTARS asking where the deregistration papers are.

LW.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yeah I reckon you are better off filing it correctly the first time. There should be no problem in getting you the de-reg papers. I got mine very soon after I purchased my car. When I sent in my application all complete it was approved in about 5 days.

madmurf Community Regular

madmurf

Posted
Posted

If you do send off the application and have left out info then dont expect a phone call.

You will recieve a letter in the mail which again delays the whole process.

I know because they couldnt read my photo ID details via the fax copy.

Instead of calling or email they wrote a generic letter.

Cheers

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

definantly suggest sending it by fax. Then ring up the office 10 minutes later, and get them to check to see if it's come through. They will then give you a reference number, so you can quote it the next time you call them.

Just call them a week later to check on progress (quoting number), makes sure things are ticking along ok, also makes sure the paperwork doesn't get lost.

my photo id didn't come through, and they sent me a fax, so i called them up and emailed a copy to them, import approval arrived 3 days later in the mail.

danozgriff Explorer

danozgriff

Posted
  • Author
Posted
definantly suggest sending it by fax.  Then ring up the office 10 minutes later, and get them to check to see if it's come through.  They will then give you a reference number, so you can quote it the next time you call them.  

Just call them a week later to check on progress (quoting number), makes sure things are ticking along ok, also makes sure the paperwork doesn't get lost.

my photo id didn't come through, and they sent me a fax, so i called them up and emailed a copy to them, import approval arrived 3 days later in the mail.

Nice. Possibly could send off now and phone up when I get my de-reg papers, quote my ref. number and fax it through.?

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

maybe just give 'em a ring and ask them what to do.

I was told not to send my approval through till 01 November 04 (coz nov 1989 build), and i called htem up mid October to ask a question, and they just said "yeah send the approval through now, we're a bit behind, and that'll speed things up for you"

re2 Collaborator

re2

Posted
Posted
Nice. Possibly could send off now and phone up when I get my de-reg papers, quote my ref. number and fax it through.?

Dane Just send off the papers, without the de-registration papers.

I'm in the exact same boat as you. Bought my car from Geoff, Same supplier in Japan, Same Shipping and we will properly be using the same customs agent.

I rang my custom agent up, and he told me that the de-registration papers weren’t necessary, if the car is 15 years or older, and that he doesn’t mind the import approval going off without deregistration papers.

I just got my import approval in the post on Friday, took me three and a half WEEKS to get it since I lodge them. So you’re properly better off getting the papers off ASAP.

I have not even yet seen my deregistration papers from the supplier and I’ve paid it over 4 weeks ago. You could be up for a wait for them.

Just remember our boat leaves Japan late February and arrives early march, around the 14th, could even be sooner. It’s properly a very good idea for you to ring up the custom agent Geoff recommended, and get the info for yourself, as he will be the one doing all the work at the docks for you in getting your car cleared.

PM me the link to the car you have purchased :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
lang Collaborator

lang

Posted
Posted

this is apparently my de-reg paper

i dont understand how it would have any meaning to dotars tho, as far as i can see there isnt even a date of first registration on here, unless its in japanese

copyofbnr320078027ui.jpg

(oh and if you can see the date on here please point it out )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...