Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol.. you're as bad as me duncan..  

one day I would like to cause an accident braking ridiculously for a speed camera.. this is my goal. if more people did that they'd be banned. Either that and "braking too excessively for speed camera" would be made an offence.

Actually it can tend to happen anyhow.. a whole line of traffic drives ridiculously slow because of a camera everybody can see - what is that doing for the "flow of traffic"

It's an invisible speed hump.

I would rather pay the $130 fine and keep the extra point.

This is the govt we are talking about, they give with one hand and take with the other.

I think this is a positive move. sure it sucks that your demerit points will be in alot more danger, but form the responses in this thread i thinkits safe to say that most of us would think twice about speeding especially in school zones., with such large punishments in place.

i know i'd rather lose dollars than points.

and just quickly:

The State Government makes more than $1 million a week in revenue from fixed speed cameras and Treasury is yet to determine how it will accommodate the revenue loss.

how disgraceful, the first thing they think of is how theyre going to make up the loss. what about the peoples lives that will potentially be saved by the changes? Why not comment more on that?

my god.

I too would rather loose a few more bucks than points.

the crazy thing is say some poor young P plater goes through a speed camera at 66 in a 60 zone. which is on a nice straight divided road on a clear day with no traffic - hardly dangerous behaviour. that poor bugger will have his licence suspended for 3 months. I hardly think he'll give two f**ks that the fine was ony $70 odd instead of $130...

I reckon they are lowering the fines to soften us up for a VIC like zero tolerance. They'll say since we've lowered fines we'll now be booking people that exceed the speed limit by more that 1km/h.

I too would rather loose a few more bucks than points.

the crazy thing is say some poor young P plater goes through a speed camera at 66 in a 60 zone. which is on a nice straight divided road on a clear day with no traffic - hardly dangerous behaviour. that poor bugger will have his licence suspended for 3 months. I hardly think he'll give two f**ks that the fine was ony $70 odd instead of $130...

I reckon they are lowering the fines to soften us up for a VIC like zero tolerance. They'll say since we've lowered fines we'll now be booking people that exceed the speed limit by more that 1km/h.

its crazy for p platers... especially red p platers, who cannot exceed 3 demerit points, so if they have one of these low level speeding offences and a p plate falls off one day and they get caught for it, thats it, 3 months without a licence.

Speed cameras would be looked at to make sure they were in the right location for safety improvement rather than revenue raising.
oh, well they won't have to move any... haven't they always told us the current locations were for safety, not revenue raising??? :cheers:

What a cynical bunch you are! At least these are steps in the right direction rather than the usual tax-payer funded ad campaigns plastered in papers, tv etc to justify their revenue raising.

If they are going to persist with the principle of no tolerance, speeding by 5km/h increases braking distances heaps etc, then they must attempt to show that the focus is on improving safety rather than treasury balances. Increasing points and dropping fines seems a fair way to do it.

I'll agree that the point penalties for you guys in NSW were too high to begin with though, no points in WA for up to 9km/h over.

I think the most encouraging aspect of the story is that Costa is stepping forward and asking for motorists opinion. The idea to make penalties harsher for right lane hoggers is commendable.

I also think they should do the same for tailgaters. The way i see it at the moment tailgating is very hard to police. If there are easily quantifiable rules as to when one is tailgating then both the driver and the cop will have an idea. For example: "You have been driving less than 2 cars lengths behind that car for more than 3 seconds. Have this fine and have a nice day."

I know this is off the topic but

If they are going to persist with the principle of no tolerance, speeding by 5km/h increases braking distances heaps etc, then they must attempt to show that the focus is on improving safety rather than treasury balances.

They say that exceeding the speed limit by 5kmh is going to double your chance of crashing and another 5kmh will triple your chance of crashing etc. What are the chances. I mean as percentage. Im thinking if you take the number of crashes in Australia everyday divided by the number of people who drive a car in Australia everyday that number would be pretty small right? So does anyone know the actual numbers? :)

If they are going to persist with the principle of no tolerance, speeding by 5km/h increases braking distances heaps etc, then they must attempt to show that the focus is on improving safety rather than treasury balances. Increasing points and dropping fines seems a fair way to do it.

I think they should do nothing.. why are they always changing the system every 5 minutes in every state?

Keep the same rules in place for 10 years.. saves a lot of ****ing around.

They can only save so many lives, it's at the minimum - government needs to get over it on focus on other things.

i think it's a good change.................if the government was using speed camera's soley to earn money like a lot of people are saying then this current move flies in the face of logic, it wouldnt make any sense................

speeding fines are less discrimintory towards performance car enthuasts too............this isnt a move to harm that group of enthusiasts.

they need to be cracking down on bad driving practice more......................that's going unnoticed.

'Keep the same rules in place for 10 years.. saves a lot of ****ing around.'

True, but that only works if the rules make sense and actually work. Otherwise they'll be either reviled or ignored, in which case you might as well not have them at all.

Standardisation of speed limits/penalties between states wouldn't hurt either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...