Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.nismo.com.au/forsale_supra.htm

1995 TOYOTA SUPRA TWIN TURBO

* Silver Bodywork

* Automatic

* GFB Blow Off Valve

* Aftermarket Exhaust

* Electronic Front Spoiler

* Traction Control

* Lowered Suspension

* 128,000 Km's

$23, 990

---

That leaves you several thousand for those "wear and tear" issues.

believe u me its not ....thats what most people think it is but its not ...

its like when u get the exhaust with the butterfly in it for the r34 it has two modes sport and normal driving ...its actually not nismo either its a nissan sports exhaust as well.

LOL, 10 years old being old.  Most Skyline imports are around that age or older.

hence my car is 1999/2000 model dude

currently 4-5 yrs old, keeping it for another 3 yrs and it'll still be under 10

the 93 supra i was looking at would be approaching 12 yrs old

big difference

LOL, 10 years old being old.  Most Skyline imports are around that age or older.

thats why my car is a 1999/2000 model

currently only around 5 yrs old and after another 3 years, it'll still be under 10 yrs old

the 93/94 supra i was looking at back then would now be approaching 12 yrs old already, great car, definately better than the gtt in power but not what i was looking for due to age

like i said, if it was a 97+, then i'd wouldve definately went for it

thats why my car is a 1999/2000 model  

currently only around 5 yrs old and after another 3 years, it'll still be under 10 yrs old

the 93/94 supra i was looking at back then would now be approaching 12 yrs old already, great car, definately better than the gtt in power but not what i was looking for due to age

like i said, if it was a 97+, then i'd wouldve definately went for it

Hey I'm not bagging you (sorry if you thought that), it's just that a lot of people (me included) could not afford a R34 GTT so we go for the older cars.

N/A Supras are fast for what they are. Stock to stock, my S1 33 Gts-t is a little faster than my mates 96 n/a Supra which is damn good on behalf of the fact the Supra has no turbo.

If I had have had more money when I went car shopping, would have gone the TT Supra for sure though. Much more of a beast than 33's, 34's, and n/a Sup's.

i think it will never has an answer

most people will say GTR is better, include me

but a guy i know, who owned MANY cars (SL600, R32 GTR, TT supra, costworth, FD & more)

and all of them are mildly mod (bigger turbo)

he told me he love his supra most.

I would definately go a series 2 or 3 R33 GTR (96-97). You should be able to pick up a good clean example for approx 45 with a few mods and IMHO I think its a better option than the tt supra, especially if you decide to modify and enjoy the traction advantage that the GTR has.

Hi mate,

I was pretty much on the same boat when I changed my R33 GTR for a TT Supra about a year ago, but after listening to my mechanic of how great the Supra was so I had to get one to try out, and still loving it.

There is no comparison between the GTT or GTST to the TT Supra, as the sups is a far better built machine with lots of potential.

Dont get either mate. For thirty grand you have so many opions. But think about what you want and want it for. Performance , drifting , luxury etc and got from there. But for around 25G you can pick up a GTR probably a R32, but then your talking 4WS 4WD, Twin turbo or a monster m/f#@cker. But if you want performance dont go the N/A Supra big disappointment. Plus the Skyline doesnt stand out to police, whereas the supra does more.

supra looks beautiful stock, GT-T need a bit of facework. Personal choice really.

Another question, why would you get auto? they cost around the same.

Any second hand car you get will have problems, so you might as well throw the money at something with a manual gearbox.

Don't go N/A as its alot slower and still just as heavy.

30,000 Id get a 33gt-r or an RX7 series VII or VIII or maybe even a WRX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...